Following a consultative process including discussion at Area Meetings, the BMC North West Area has agreed guidance reflecting the climbing ethics and views of the North West on the use of fixed gear. Read more »
Following discussions at Area Meetings in 2021, guidelines on placing or replacing fixed gear on rock climbs in North Wales were published and agreed at the July 2021 BMC Cymru North Wales Area Meeting. Read more »
In situ pitons (pegs) can be found on many sea cliffs and inland crags in the British Isles. In most cases pegs have been used to provide protection on rock with limited natural protection and where bolts have not been an acceptable option. Avon Gorge, Wintours Leap, Pembroke, North Devon & Cornwall and Gogarth are examples of venues where pegs are common. This article provides an update on the BMC's position on pegs in British climbing as agreed by National Council on 6 December 2014. Read more »
Reports have surfaced this week of some or all of the lower-off bolts being partially chopped at the area of Chudleigh known as the North Face. Read more »
The last BMC North West Area gathering decided to give the legendary Frogsmouth Quarry (Runcorn) a good going over and restore it to its previous glory. Now, thanks to the work of Goi Ashmore, Colin Struthers and John Haslam, Halton Council and the local rangers have given us the go-ahead. Read more »
Rotting fixed gear, missing pegs, guide books out of date, no stakes to be found for belay stations and dirty routes that no one wants to climb anymore. Not the conditions I've been used too after living on the Costa Blanca for eight years. Just what has happened to one of the most spectacular areas of climbing Britain has to offer? Read more »
The gates of The Mighty Hoghton have swung open for the summer...now might be a good time to go for a look. Read more »
The stakes are high, if you don't check what you're belaying to. Just how solid is that old piece of angle iron at the top of your favourite quarry? Read more »
Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (DWT) have requested the bolts which recently appeared on this obscure Chee Dale buttress are removed for ecological reasons. Read more »
A note of caution for Avon climbers. Read more »
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