Scotland is rightly heralded as the great woolly bastion for trad climbing in these here lands. Big mountain crags have long been a magnetic draw to the nut-and-cam brigade and the big dark highland faces are the very definition of traditional. But take a peek under the kilt of Scottish climbing and you will see that there’s a different experience awaiting climbers.
7a Max is a new guide to mid-grade sport climbing in Scotland. It’s authors, Sebastian Rider and Topher Dagg have assembled 1500 routes into this tidy and colourful volume, concentrating on the more accessible grades from 2 up to 7a+.
Looking through the book, several things jump out. First is the setting of the crags. These are often stunning mountainscapes, stunning seasides and gorgeous valleys. The other things is the variety of rock types, which must offer unique sport climbing not available anywhere else in Britain: granite, gneiss, dolerite, conglomerate, sandstone, schist – all will offer their own particular characters and climbing styles.
We caught up with Seb to see what went in to making this guide.
What got you in to Scottish sport climbing?
Topher and I primarily trad climbed before getting into sport climbing. I did a fair bit of sport whilst living in Devon and could not wait to try out Scottish sport as soon as I returned. Topher got into sport climbing as physiotherapy after his trad exploits on Skye left him recovering from a broken femur!
Who are main developers?
Scottish sport would not be what it is without Neil Shepherd. He got it going in Angus in the mid 80s and is still bolting and maintaining routes. Rab Anderson, also a pioneer, has also been particularity active throughout the development of Scottish sport. After the new millennium Paul Tattersall brought many fine sport crags to the northwest Highlands, he is still drilling today.
Why don’t we hear much about it south of the border?
Our best kept secret! Sport climbing in Scotland is overshadowed by the amazing trad climbing we have. The lack of any sport guide for so long definitely had an impact. Some crags were simply not known about, with some ending up in disrepair before becoming better known. A guide was important for Scottish sport climbing. Folk could get enthusiastic for what is there, crags would get visited, and the sport climbing scene could consolidate. This will help with the next challenge, the maintenance of all that ageing in-situ gear!
What is the best thing about Scottish sport climbing?
Some great sport climbs in the most beautiful of locations. You can often have crags all to yourself, although sometimes you need to share with midges!
What are your favourite crags?
Goat crag and the surrounding area is fantastic, it is no coincidence great cover shots come from here! Topher and I both have a soft spot for Arbroath, it's rather esoteric, great for teaching you lessons, and you can reward yourself with an Arbroath Smokie after getting spanked! Another favorite is Princess Cairn at Loch Fleet. It would be, we bolted it and a visit is a welcome journey back to where I was brought up! There are a few nice climbs there, good rock, and the views over the Loch Fleet nature reserve are simply amazing.
What's the best time to go?
Before or after the midges and summer rain; May or September.
What are the midges like?
At some crags almost always absent, at others sometimes prolific, we have a midge rating for a reason! Visiting a peat bog on a still overcast day, or on a still evening can be a very bad idea!
Why do you just cover routes up to 7a+?
We were at Kirriemuir, one of Scotland's most popular crags, watching folk with scraps of paper trying to find routes when we had the idea for the guide. Being at this popular mid-grade crag made us think what about a book that focused on routes for the average climber, so we tried it, 7a Max sounded fun too! The climbs covered actually represent a large majority of Scotland's sport climbs, and dispel a myth that used to go around that Scottish sport is mostly of the harder grades.
Finally, sum up creating the guide in 3 words.
Fun, exhausting, adventure!
You can pick up a copy of 7a Max in the BMC shop today.
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