Four members of the GB Paraclimbing team headed out to Imst to compete in the second round of the ParaClimbing World Cup on 16-17 July.

Representing Great Britain were: Team Captain Sianagh Gallagher (arm amputee), Martin Heald (leg amputee), Matthew Phillips (lower arm amputee) and Isabella Walsh (lower arm amputee).

The Kletterzentrum (Climbing Centre) was set in another great location. An impressive structure with a huge competition wall kept up by two “stilts” surrounded by the Austrian Alps. With warm conditions and again at altitude, the GB team had their work cut out.

The routes were far harder here than in Italy. Sianagh had to climb routes up to 6b+ (with one arm), Matthew and Isabella up to 7a+ and Martin up to 7b+! The team were determined and looking forward to putting their training to the test, giving it their all and inspiring every other competitor watching.

The competitors

Sianagh

After a shakey start on day one, Sianagh had everything to prove on the second day. The routes were harder, but she was far more relaxed and even more hyped up. Her final route was on an arête – all of the moves looked incredibly awkward as they were set with the majority of holds on the left (Sianagh does not have a left arm).

However, through some hugely impressive and dynamic moves, Sianagh battled her way up the route, surpassing all expectations and even getting in a no-hands rest at the mid-height point! She went on to fall just two moves from the top, but an incredible performance and the most notable of the day by any competitor! She utterly deserved her top of the podium position!

Matthew

Matthew had far more competition this round and had to keep his nerves under control as, after the first day, he was tied for first place alongside two other competitors.

The second day started well with the first two routes being flashed, but equally so by his two rivals. It all came down to the final route – a tough 7a+. With two distinct cruxes identified, it all came down to was nerves. Matt held them well and cruised passed the first crux. The final hurdle was a massive dynamic move throwing his left arm to a small crimp and then bouncing it again to a tiny foothold. He managed to catch it, but moments later popped off!

He had beaten one of his rivals, but with nothing to lose and having seen all of the beta, the final competitor managed to make a small adjustment enabling him to latch the hold Matt had popped off – putting Matt into an incredibly close second place, but excellent performance.

WATCH: The BMC Paraclimbing Series 2015 R2 on BMC TV

Isabella

It was an incredibly tough round against two very experienced competitors for Isabella. Despite her nerves, she managed to get through the first day with everything to play for on the second day. Isabella managed to top the first route with ease, putting everything on the last two. Her main rival from Hungary topped the final two routes however, putting Isabella into third place, but a definite improvement on the first round!

Martin

Arguably the toughest category of the competition was leg amputation. There were nine very experienced competitors, all with multiple World Cups under their belts’, which meant Martin had a fight on his hands.

The first day saw a 6c, 7a and 7a+ for him to fight up. After day one, Martin was just outside the top group slipping off the final holds of two of the routes. Day two saw three 7b (and above) routes only seeing a couple of tops from any competitors. Martin improved throughout the competition and outdid himself on the final route surpassing many of the best athletes on the tour. He missed out on the podium this round, but certainly gained a lot of experience.

The future

With climbing now in the Tokyo2020 Olympics, the team are more determined than ever to keep training and raise awareness and participation for future events in order for it to be considered as a Paralympic sport.

The team have the World Championships in Paris this September, so keep an eye on their progress and show them support by visiting and liking their Facebook page:

Again a huge thank you to our sponsors for their support: Climb Britain, Birchall BlackBurn Law, Berghaus and The Mountaineering Council of Scotland

For more information, please contact the manager and head coach Robin O’Leary – coaching@robinolearycoaching.com

We want to say a big thanks to every BMC member who continues to support us through the Coronavirus crisis.

From weekly Facebook Lives and GB Climbing home training videos, to our access team working to re-open the crags and fight for your mountain access, we couldn’t do it without you.

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