Lancashire isn’t famous for its bouldering. This wide county is better known for the dark satanic thrills found on lonely leads and soul-searing solos in the famous quarries of Wilton, Egerton, Anglezark. But this year a book has appeared that shows how times are changing.

Lancashire Bouldering, a new guidebook by local zealot Robin Müller, showcases the area. A new attitude, one that finds quality moves as much an end point as soaring arêtes, is obvious from the pages. Sit starts and lip traverses have made the most of shorter rocks. In the traditional quarries, climbing between the classics as far a jumping-off points has made the most of the blank walls. Eliminates have been honed to give moves as fine as those on any local classics. The result is over 1,500 problems at 60 venues, the majority of which even the most dedicated boulderer won’t have been to.

The guide covers the yawning, beautiful moorland grit of the Trough of Bowland, famous among the cognoscenti for the wonderful Thorn Crag, down to the pump-busting Craig-y-Longridge. The classic quarries of Wilton, Anglezarke, Egerton, Cadshaw, Troy and Lester Mill all have their walls scoured for gems. Lesser-known quarries like Jumbles, Ashworth Moor, Roundbarn, Lee and Cow’s Mouth show their true potential too.

So, as spring finally warms up and the crags come into prime condition, why not check out some fresh gritstone bouldering, and pick up a copy of the guide from the BMC shop.

To see things from a local perspective, we caught up with the book’s author, and chief developer of the region, Robin Müller.

This is the first guide to Lancashire bouldering and people might not know much about it. Sum up the character of the area.
Moorland crags to lift the soul. Savage quarries to beat down the unworthy.

Did you have to do much exploration?
Loads! Scouring maps, chasing rumours, sifting trad haunts, wandering wild moorlands.

What makes the area so special for you?
Lancashire has its own stony soul, very different to Yorkshire or the Peak.

What made you decide to work on a guide to the area?
To share what I love. There are 2000 established problems, did you know that?

What, for you, are the three stand-out gems of the area?
Return Of The Fly, 7C+ - Thorn Crag
Faith and Energy, 7A+ - Ousel's Nest
Trig Slab, 6A - Blackstone Edge

What were the highpoints and lowpoints of making it?
Loved the fevered gold-rush of documenting new venues. Hated checking for typos.

What do you hope the guide will do for the area?
I hope to see more boulderers! Grit lovers, here's a whole new world...

Sum up writing the guide in three words.
Took me ages.

Grab yourself a copy of the new guide in the BMC shop and open up a whole new world of gritstone bouldering.

We want to say a big thanks to every BMC member who continues to support us through the Coronavirus crisis.

From weekly Facebook Lives and GB Climbing home training videos, to our access team working to re-open the crags and fight for your mountain access, we couldn’t do it without you.

Did you know that we've launched a U27 membership offer for just £1.50 / month? And with full membership from £2.50 / month, it's never been easier to join and support our work: 

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/join-the-bmc-for-1-month-U27-membership

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