The first ever combined BMC Technical and Training Conference was delivered to a packed audience at Plas y Brenin this Saturday.

Over 70 delegates escaped the rain at Plas y Brenin to spend the day at the BMC “Know Your Stuff” Technical and Training Conference. Based on previous Technical Conferences, this one-day seminar combined both technical and skills advice, and was aimed at all climbers, and especially anyone working professionally in the outdoors.

The overall aim was to give a clear understanding of the forces generated in climbing situations, and how the energy is absorbed by the rope and other pieces of equipment. The day kicked off with a morning of practical demonstrations, where attendees experienced a drop rig to test rope and sling strengths, investigated forces and falling on the climbing walls, and got the chance to test karabiners and slings to destruction.

This was then followed and expanded on in an afternoon of very detailed talks delivered by three leading world experts; Michel Beal (head of the family run company BEAL which is the world’s largest manufacturer of climbing ropes), Vittorio Bedogni (from the Italian Alpine Club, who has undertaken extensive research into the forces generated and the energy absorbed whilst belaying, and Neville McMillan (Vice President of the UIAA Safety Commission and member of the BMC Technical Committee for 23 years). Oliver Milling, the current chair of the BMC Technical Committee also talked through several usual – and not so usual – failures of equipment. The focus was on developments in modern ropes and the importance of the safety chain created by the belayer/belay device/rope, after which the evening wound down with welcome beers and a slideshow from one of the strongest mechanical engineers around – a certain Steve McClure.

Everyone agreed that it was a fantastically informative day, and a totally unique chance to quiz such experts as Michel, Vittorio and Neville in an informal setting. We hope to repeat the event next year, and a full summary of the findings will be published here on the website soon.

But for those who can’t wait, here’s one tip – extend your runners.

Sponsored by Beal Ropes and supported by the Mountain Training Trust.

Many thanks to Lyon Equipment, Plas y Brenin, and all the BMC technical volunteers for making the day possible.

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