Continuing our series of articles about the work of volunteer-led BMC specialist committees, we highlight the work of the Technical Committee, which works with manufacturers and other partners to provide unbiased advice on safety equipment for climbing and mountaineering. Read more »
The DAV (German Alpine Club) have issued a safety alert for lower-off units from manufacturer Fixe, some of which have been reported to fail by cracking of one of the chain links. These units are primarily designed for use at indoor walls, but are also sometimes installed outside with the hangers mounted onto expansion bolts to provide an outdoor lower-off. Read more »
Sheffield’s Titanium bolt guru, Martin Roberts, thinks Stainless Steel bolts should become a thing of the past; not just in super corrosive tropical environments like Thailand, but also in the UK. Sarah Stirling finds out more. Read more »
Following the catastrophic failure of a bolt on a North Wales limestone route, the BMC is advising climbers to treat all ‘Thunderbolt’ anchors with caution. Read on for more details and advice on how to detect these bolts. Read more »
Lowering off from a sport climb isn't always as easy as it is at the climbing wall. Knowing a few techniques can make the difference between an enjoyable day's climbing and a trip to A&E. Read more »
Great news for sport climbers! Once again the BMC is providing free bolts and accessories to bolt funds in England & Wales. Bolt funds are invited to make applications for equipment to replace old bolts and belays to help make our sport climbs safer. Read more »
The UIAA Safety Commission has issued an update to a warning notice originally sent out in 2009, regarding the danger of environmental degradation of bolt anchors. This update warns that the problem is more widespread than originally thought. Read more »
News that two bolts failed recently on the Smalldale route Summat Outanowt has prompted anxiety in the Peak climbing community. Gary Gibson, who re-equipped the routes at the end of last year, has sent an email to the BMC saying that he has replaced the bolts. He has also checked bolts on several other routes at Smalldale – a list of these routes appears below. Read more »
The equipment manufacturer Petzl has discovered that criminals are making counterfeit copies of some of its equipment. Read more »
BMC Technical Officer Dan Middleton was live on the UKC Forums on Monday 9 August answering questions on all things gear related. Read more »
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