Thanks to a strong recovery from the recent financial crisis, and the success of the November 2010 fund-raising lecture at the RGS, the Mount Everest Foundation has been able to support 25 exploratory expeditions to the tune of £36,200.

Three have already completed their trips and several are currently in the field

The aims of the MEF are "to encourage and support expeditions exploring mountain regions, and both education and research pertaining to a wide range of subjects in mountain areas, including geography, glaciology and the effects of altitude". Because of the historical origin of the Foundation, primarily British and New Zealand expeditions are likely to qualify for support.

This year Nepal has proved to be the most popular destination.

The rarely visited Far West Nepal has attracted two teams. Julian Freeman-Attwood's expedition is recently back from exploring the Changla Himal (£,1700), while in the autumn Mick Fowler's team hopes to attempt unclimbed Mugu Chuli (6,310m) by the West Face (£2,000).

In the Khumbu, Ben Dare and fellow New Zealanders plan to attempt new routes on 6,186m Kyajo Ri and 6,369m Kusum Kanguru (£750).

Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman have already returned, unsuccessful in their attempt to make the first ascent of 6,769m Kyashar's South Pillar (£1,250m). However, in the autumn Bullock hopes to return to Nepal for an attempt on 7,710m Jannu or 7,468m Jannu East (£2,500).

Steve Holmes's expedition hopes to try unclimbed 6,550m Lunag V in the hidden north west corner of the Khumbu (£1,500).

There are two expeditions to India: Mark Higton and two other members of the Alpine Club will join four Indian mountaineers for an attempt on unclimbed Chemshen Kangri (7,019m) in the East Karakoram (£2,000). Jonathan Moodie and fellow climbers from Imperial College hope to explore unclimbed peaks up to 6,177m in Zanskar's Reru Valley (£1,800).

The West Karakoram is the venue for the only expedition visiting Pakistan. Peter Thompson's team are to try the unclimbed Muchu Chhish (7,453m), one of the highest unclimbed peaks in the country (£2,500). This is likely to feature a long and committing ridge traverse above 7,000m.

Two teams go to Afghanistan. New Zealander Pat Deavoll and her sister hope to climb a new route on Koh-e-Baba Tangi (6,516m), towards the eastern end of the Wakhan Corridor (£1,250), while Rebecca Coles's expedition, having first attempted the last unclimbed 6,000m peak in Tajikistan's Muzkol Range, a little further north, will explore the Raig Jurm Valley, where there appears to be no recorded activity since the beginning of the 1970s (£1,500).

After a thorough reconnaissance in 2010 of the little-known Eastern Erin Habirga in China's Tien Shan, John Town is returning with three other mountaineers to attempt first ascents of peaks over 5,000m in this attractive alpine range (£2,000). One of the team, Iwonna Hudowska, has been awarded the 2011 Alison Chadwick Memorial Grant.

Two teams are going to Kyrghyzstan. Gareth Mottram visited the Western Kokshaal-too's Sarychat Glacier in 2009 on an MEF supported trip, and is returning to attempt more unclimbed peaks in the area (£1.500). Further east, Alex Brighton and Richard Tremellen are following up Matt Traver's successful visit to the Djangart Range last year, hoping to climb the area's highest summit, which remains untouched (£1,250).

Alaska and the Yukon remain popular destinations and Guy Wilson and his team have already returned from the Hayes Range, where they made the first ascent of the North East Face of Mt Geist (3,085m).

In the Central Alaska Range New Zealander Graham Zimmerman and an American partner are trying a new route on Foraker (5,304m), and possibly the South East aspect of one of its subsidiary summits, the Fin (£500).

Paul Knott returned to the remote Johns Hopkins Glacier in the Fairweather Range to attempt the unclimbed North Ridge of Mt Orville (3,199m) but poor weather and conditions prevented any summits from being reached (£1,800).

Close to the confluence of the Denis and Walsh glaciers in the Yukon, Glenn Wilks's party hopes to make first ascents in a small knot of peaks up to 4,000m (£1,250). Further south in Canada, Adrian Dye's four-man team are hoping to bush-whack their way into British Columbia's Sittakanay Peak (2,415m), and then make its first ascent (£650).

Two teams are visiting Peru this summer. Matt Balmer and two friends hope to make the first ascent of the South Face of Huagaruncho Chico (c5,300m) in one of the least visited parts of the Cordillera Oriental (£1,500), while Hamish Dunn and Tom Ripley have identified an unclimbed c5,400m summit in the Cordillera Carabaya, an area still having great potential for new lines (£1,250).

The MEF also supports eligible scientific research, and certain caving expeditions that have been recommended by the Ghar Parau Foundation.

This year a total of £2,400 was awarded to three caving trips; to Mulu, the Shan Plateau in Myanmar, and China's Zhongdian region. Two post-graduate glaciology students from Aberystwyth University received £2,000 towards a surface study of glaciers on Kamchatka's volcanoes, which bear incredible similarities to those on Mars.

The outcomes of these various adventures will appear from time to time on this site.
 

« Back