A small group of British and American climbers, currently resident in China, have developed a new sandstone trad area in Yunnan.

Situated in the Loajunshan National Park, in the three gorges scenic area of North West Yunnan Province, the region is best described as offering a variety of crack climbing in the style of Utah's famous Indian Creek.

Sandstone cliffs up to 200m high lie throughout 10 major valleys, all accessed via the town of Liming at 2,100m.

The area was first discovered by Austin and Laoiju Stringham, who then worked tirelessly to gain access for rock climbers. This was eventually granted by the Chinese Government in November 2010.

And because the local government can now see the potential financial benefits, it is totally enthusiastic about climbing development. This good news means that the Park could become an example to the rest of China, opening government eyes to this type of outdoor recreation.

Activity in the last seven months has been frenzied, and Michael Dobie, Eben Farnworth, Darryl Kralovic and Austin Stringham have put up 50 new routes. These aren't the first climbs to be established: traditionally, locals scaled the cliffs in search of beehives and birds' nests.

Liming is a trad climbing area. Apart from anchor bolts and rappel stations, all the routes have been climbed without fixed gear unless 'unsafe climbing' is deemed present.

Some routes sport the odd bolt, and some still require aid, but the authors state that if bolts are placed near any potential natural protection, they will be removed.

The monsoon strikes the region from July to September, but outside this period climbing is possible: February to June is best, though the winter is still feasible, as daytime temperatures reach 11°C and above. The Park entrance fee is currently around £8.

Established climbs are mostly in the 5.9 to 5.11+ category, though there are several easier routes and great potential for more.

Mike Dobie has written an interim guidebook, which can be downloaded for free from www. junshanclimber.com
 

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