The British Bouldering Team had their second Team training session at the Sports and Exercise Section of Teesside University on Saturday 16 October.

The day was organised by Dominic White (MSc) the Teams’ Sports Scientist who works at the University. Dominic explained that the reason behind the session was, “To take a number of baseline measurements, some being climbing specific and others being general tests of physical capacity. These were collected using reliable equipment and procedures so that we can assess if members of the Team are making physical improvements by retesting again in March.” Most of the tests were maximal in nature and included the following:
• Maximal Finger Strength (Dominant Hand Only)
• Finger Endurance at 80% of Maximal Capacity (Dominant Hand Only)
• Upper Body Anaerobic Capacity
• Functional Movement Screening
• One Arm Pull Up Maximal Strength (Dominant Arm)
• One Arm Pull Up Endurance at 80% of Maximal Capacity (Dominant Arm)
• Vertical Jump Performance
• Skinfold Measurements
• Maximal Isometric ‘Lock Off’ Strength
• Abdominal Curl Endurance Test
• Aerobic Capacity

The results of the tests will be used to help identify individual strengths and weaknesses in order to set more specific training goals. Additionally, testing the team throughout the training year allows an assessment of how individual team members are responding to training programs.

During the lunch break Matt Wright (MSc), Elite Sports Development Officer for the University delivered a workshop on Periodisation of Training which was followed by Dan Eaves’ (MSc), Senior Lecturer, workshop covering various aspects of Applied Sports Psychology.

A large number of staff from the Sports and Exercise Section was involved in running the tests and making the day a great success. The research gained from the tests will enhance our future work with the Team.
The Team would like to express their sincere thanks to the following individual highlighted below for all their hard work during the day, it is greatly appreciated.

Dominic White (Senior Lecturer)
Dr Matthew Weston (Senior Lecturer)
Jamie Harley (Research Asst)
Dan Eaves (Senior Lecturer)
Mathew Wright (Elite Sport Development Officer)
Mike Graham (Technical Staff)
Laura Wilson (Technical Staff)
Shanna King (Technical Staff)
Tom McBain (Research Asst)
Luke Passman (Strength & Conditioning Intern)
Shane Hassel (Strength & Conditioning Intern)

I would also like to give a big thank you to Dave Hodgson and Colin Parry who designed and constructed the testing rigs used to measure climbing specific finger and arm strength. Without their input several of the tests would not have possible.

Nick Clement
British Bouldering Team Manger
 

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