In situ pitons (pegs) can be found on many sea cliffs and inland crags in the British Isles. In most cases pegs have been used to provide protection on rock with limited natural protection and where bolts have not been an acceptable option. Avon Gorge, Wintours Leap, Pembroke, North Devon & Cornwall and Gogarth are examples of venues where pegs are common. This article provides an update on the BMC's position on pegs in British climbing as agreed by National Council on 6 December 2014. Read more »
Pegs have been a part of climbing in the British Isles for many decades. The development of protection devices such as micro cams and small wires have made many pegs redundant. Still, sometimes the climber must rely on pegs, and nowhere is this fraught with more potential hazard than on sea cliffs. Read more »
Rotting fixed gear, missing pegs, guide books out of date, no stakes to be found for belay stations and dirty routes that no one wants to climb anymore. Not the conditions I've been used too after living on the Costa Blanca for eight years. Just what has happened to one of the most spectacular areas of climbing Britain has to offer? Read more »
Should we continue to use pegs as semi-permanent anchors, or is it time to retire them from active service? Read more »
What you see is often not what you get. David Hillebrandt illustrates why you should take in-situ gear with a pinch of salt. Read more »
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