Our bolts advice guides come in two parts. Part one is aimed at the climber, in particular those who have learnt to climb indoors and are making the transition outside. It covers the need to know information to help assess the safety of an outdoor sport climb. Part two is newly published and is a guide to current good practice for choosing and installing bolts, covering all of the important issues which must be addressed in order to do this competently and with the correct equipment. Read more »
The DAV (German Alpine Club) have issued a safety alert for lower-off units from manufacturer Fixe, some of which have been reported to fail by cracking of one of the chain links. These units are primarily designed for use at indoor walls, but are also sometimes installed outside with the hangers mounted onto expansion bolts to provide an outdoor lower-off. Read more »
As a sport climber do you assume that all bolts are bomb-proof? Well, maybe it's time to think again. The UIAA have issued a warning through the Safety Commission, which is an important read for anyone who sport climbs or equips bolted routes, especially in warm coastal climates. Read more »
Back in 2007, many British sport climbing venues were suffering from a plague of old, decaying fixed equipment. In response, the BMC decided to assist volunteers and bolt funds, by providing both training and supplies of high quality bolts and lower off's. Read on to discover more. Read more »
Following discussions at BMC area meetings and National Council over the past two years, formal position statements on drilled equipment and the separate but related issue of dry tooling have been agreed. Read more »
This summer has seen an unfathomable series of gear thefts from sport routes in North Wales. On several occasions over the last three months, unsuspecting climbers have arrived triumphant at the lower off at the top of a climb – only to find it’s not there. Read more »
Great news for sport climbers! Once again the BMC is providing free bolts and accessories to bolt funds in England & Wales. Bolt funds are invited to make applications for equipment to replace old bolts and belays to help make our sport climbs safer. Read more »
You're cranking it out, going for the onsight. But what's in the rock, stopping you from hitting the deck? The UK has an assortment of bolts; from old to new, hand-made to manufactured. Can you tell the difference? Read more »
At previous BMC South Wales meetings, a number of climbers said that as they were relatively new to the area, and had no involvement with the old bolt policy, they would like to contribute to it in the light of new developments and changing attitudes. Read more »
Earlier in the year, the BMC once again invited regional bolt funds to apply for donations of free bolts as part of the Better Bolts Campaign. 8 groups applied for equipment from a total fund worth £10,000. So, who is getting what and for where? Read more »
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