The Queen of bouldering returned to the top of the podium this weekend in the third round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup 2017. Hosted in Nanjing, China, competitors battled hot and humid conditions as well as a set of tricky blocs. Find out all the details here.
After narrowly missing out on gold in the Chongqing, the second round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup 2017, to Janja Garnbret of Slovenia, Shauna put on a convincing display of strength and determination in Nanjing and topped all the problems in the Final to take the gold medal.
The rest of the GB Climbing Team also put in solid efforts: Michaela Tracy made another Semi-Final, as did Nathan Phillips and Tyler Landman in the Men’s, and Leah Crane came close to making Semis once again.
Team Japan continue to look incredibly strong, as half of all the finalists were Japanese, which meant there would always be at least one of their climbers on the wall at all times in the Final. Even more, half of the podium places went to a Japanese climber: Keita Watabe took gold (and his first victory ever in an IFSC World Cup) and Tomoa Narasaki took sliver in the Men’s, while Miho Nonaka won bronze in the Women’s.
Event report: Finals
Shauna’s gold was not won easily, as it all came down to the last problem in a sensational friendly rivalry with the young gun Janja Garnbret. Fortunately Shauna found the solution to the tricky slab before time was up, giving her a second victory this year.
Miho Nonaka of Japan finished third with two tops, and special mention goes to the Korean climber Jain Kim, who’s better known for her lead climbing prowess, as she competed in her first IFSC Bouldering World Cup final since 2012.
The Men’s final was also a close battle, with fierce competition from Keita Watabe, Tomoa Narasaki, Jernej Kruder and Jongwon Chon. With several flashes, and a number of tops, Keita secured his victory by cruising to the top of the crimpy final problem on his first go, closely followed by Tomoa and Jongwon who also flashed the last problem for second and fourth place, respectively.
WATCH: The Finals Highlights of IFSC BWC Nanjing 2017
VIDEO
Women's results:
Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
Janja Garnbret (SLO)
Miho Nonaka (JPN)
Jain Kim (KOR)
Aya Onoe (JPN)
Mei Kotake (JPN)
Men's results:
Keita Watabe (JPN)
Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
Jernej Kruder (SLO)
Jongwon Chon (KOR)
Manuel Cornu (FRA)
Rei Sugimoto (JPN)
Speed Climbing World Cup
The world's fastest climbers posted blistering times on the 15m Speed wall, with two athletes posting two new world records. Reza Alipourshenazandifar raised the bar, posting a new men’s Speed world record of 5.48 seconds in the semi-final race against Bassa Mawem of France, who finished fourth. The Iranian star registered no times above six seconds, and he completed the historic weekend with a victory in the final match after a fall from runner-up Aleksandr Shikov of Russia.
For the women, 2016 season champion Iuliia Kaplina remained unstoppable, following up her win at Chongqing with another page in the record books. She again broke her own women’s Speed world record in Nanjing, besting her Russian teammate Mariia Krasavina in the last face-off with a time of 7.38 seconds.
WATCH: The Finals Highlights of IFSC Speed WC Nanjing 2017
VIDEO
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