A 'sun-filled success' is how participants summarized the First Chamonix Mountain Festival, which took place from the 1st - 8th June.
Supported by a number of international organizations, including the BMC, the Alpine Club, the UIAA, Groupe de Haute Montagne, and the Alpine Convention, the festival hosted climbers and trekkers from 18 different countries.
In addition the event was supported by 18 international equipment brands, which provided an array of products for the opening weekend's Gear Fest, and for participants to test throughout the following week.
However, up to the start date things looked gloomy. Almost continuous inclement weather throughout much of April and May, with snow above 2,000m, had led locals to dub the 2013 winter as 'endless'.
But on the opening day the weather gods smiled, and by and large kept smiling until the day after the event finished.
The festival was very much promoted as non-elitist, actively encouraging climbers of more modest abilities. Many arrived without partners and a mix-and-match approach ensured the meet quickly became extremely sociable.
Also instrumental in the success was that the vast majority came simply to climb or ski as much as possible and have a good time, with no particular route list that had to be ticked to justify existence.
With more snow at the start of June than during most of the winter, classic ski runs were an obvious initial choice and more than 20 participants found the Vallée Blanche in near perfect condition.
Those opting to climb on the first day were taken to Italy, where the sun beat down remorselessly on the 300m-high Paretone di Arnad, making for thirsty work on its nine-pitch classics.
With free lift passes to the Aiguille du Midi, but much snow at that altitude, parties took advantage of easily accessible classics such as the Cosmiques Arête, traverse of Pointe Lachenal, and the Chèré Couloir. However, at the end of the week a team completed the Dru Couloir in less than perfect conditions, with a bivouac at the top.
Valley rock climbing proved very popular, and included ascents at Barberine, Vallorcine, Chesery, Rocher des Mottets, and Cascade de Doran.
Some enjoyed other sports, such as cycling/mountain biking, while a few brave souls made tandem paraglider flights from the Plan de l'Aiguille, a reward for winning the festival competition.
And the always friendly Chinese contingent had several novel experiences. Apart from making their first paragliding flights, they also spent a day walking on the Mer de Glace, their first time on a glacier.
Evening entertainment included a lecture on the Mazeno Ridge of Nanga Parbat by Sandy Allan, and the premier of the film Petit Dru, the Disintegrating Mountain, which features Steve House and Andy Parkin. Made by a German company, it will no doubt appear at British film festivals later this year.
The driving force and main organizer of the festival is former Hon Secretary of the Alpine Club, Francoise Call, who noted that the great week was "made possible by the brilliant cooperation of the Compagnie du Mont Blanc, Chamonix Tourism Office, the Mairie's Office, and the staff of the UCPA [which accommodated participants]".
"The fact that we’d had such poor weather in the run-up to the event was a worry, but the sun came out and everyone got to climb every day, not to mention ski too, if they wanted. It is a huge pleasure for me that we had so many nationalities; it’s exactly what I’d hoped. We aim to increase this number for the event in 2014, and as soon as we have a date in the diary, we’ll shout about it".
To keep in touch with the festival, go to its Facebook page, or Website
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