Okay, so I was never going to be a brilliant climber, mainly VD and S outdoors (with one E0) and leading around 6a+ indoors subject to grading), I could maybe boulder V2 on a good day, but I enjoyed it and had several fun trips to Font amongst other places. Then, in October 2007, my left shoulder started to hurt. I had physiotherapy and cortisone injections, but they didn’t help and the pain got worse, so I had to lay off climbing for a while and in March I was diagnosed with bone cancer!

Well I thought a couple of rounds of chemotherapy and possibly an operation to replace the top of the humerus with some shiny steel (all climbers like shiny bits), I’d be climbing as good as I had previously, if not better. In July, however I had to have a left forequarter amputation (arm, shoulder blade, collarbone and a fair bit of muscle). I thought I’d never be able to climb again. While recuperating I had reports of other climbers with limbs missing so two months later and with help from friends I managed to top rope a few routes at Wharnecliffe. This inspired me to try and get back into climbing properly, but with winter fast approaching I’d struggle to get outdoors and I realised that anything vertical or overhanging would be impossible and how could I belay? 

An email to the Edge provided the answer. Although there is no formal policy for disabled climbers (I don’t think of my self as disabled by the way), Phil Robbins realised that I’d be limited to certain routes indoors and in recognition of the work I do for the BMC allowed me and my partner to climb there for free.

I was still concerned how I’d be able to belay safely. When we went down to climb indoors for the first time Phil was waiting for us with a bag full of gear. After several attempts using shunts, knotted ropes and various belay devices, he suddenly realised that there were some Wild Country SRCs (Single Rope Controllers) that they no longer used. He fetched one and with the addition of a foot loop I managed to safely belay. Phil had spent around 2 hours with us and at the end of the session gave me the SRC, which was lucky, as they’re no longer made. I’ve since been to The Edge a few times, and if I pick my routes (corners and slabs) I’m climbing routes graded around 5+ and belaying quite safely. Lead belaying is proving tricky – too much resistance in the system – but I am sure we can cross that bridge later.

To quote another amputee – "when life throws you lemons, make limbonade…"

I am now looking forwards to an improvement in the weather so that I can get outside and maybe try that infamous E0 again.

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