British alpinism is thriving - what’s the secret of this renaissance? According to Ian Parnell, it’s all down to the UK Sport Grants and the legacy of the 80’s minimalist attitude.
Just before winter set in, Ian Parnell, Kenton Cool and John Varco (US) made the first ascent of the South West Ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m). This was a highly coveted line that had repelled several strong European teams.
It was yet another world class effort from the Brits in recent years, and was nominated for the French Piolet D’or award. This award (aka Golden Ice Axe) is given out annually by Montagnes Magazine and the Groupe de Haute Montagne for outstanding mountaineering achievements.
But only five years ago Ian Parnell was stuck behind a desk lost in dusty world of organising climbing competitions. What happened, and why is British alpinism so healthy at the moment?
Annapurna. Another nice result. You and Kenton Cool seem to make quite a team, how did you first hook up?
The first time I met Kenton he was crawling in to Coire an t-Sneachda! It was on a BMC International Winter meet and he was just out of his wheelchair following a nasty accident breaking both ankles in the slate quarries. I just looked at him and thought that guy’s insane. He definitely made an impression, but after that I tried to avoid climbing with him. The first time we actually teamed up was on another BMC Meet, the Slovenian exchange. There was a good crew out; Sam Chinnery, the Benson Brothers, Kenton. It was a great trip, we all shared the same ethos of what we wanted to do in the mountains, and how to do it. And as a result all ended up heading to India later that year to try the Arwa Spire.
What about John Varco?
We met John in a bar in Chamonix over the winter season. It soon became evident that he shared our non-too-serious approach to climbing, and despite the fact we’d never seen him climb, we planned the trip. Getting on socially is the most important thing. I mean, if you can’t take the mick out of someone, then you're in for a bad time on the mountain.
Isn’t three people literally an odd number to climb as?
A lot of people ask that. It was the first time I’d ever experimented with it, and I've got to say, it really was a huge success. Two people can follow almost as quick as one, so there are no time issues. But three can squeeze into a two-person tent surprisingly easily, share the same amount of cooking equipment and rack, giving great weight savings. But the biggest bonus is in the mind. Psychologically you’re a much stronger unit. If there are just two of you, one person’s mood can jeopardize the whole trip. But with three you’ve bought yourself some breathing space, if someone has a bad night there are two people to look after them - there’s no effect on the momentum.
You were nominated for the Piolet D’Or, does that mean anything?
Yes of course, although us Brits do have a laissez faire attitude to awards, especially French ones, you can’t help but feel flattered when your climb gets nominated. It’s always nice to be recognised.
Annapurna is just one of many trips. You must live a hectic life?
Well, I’m not denying it’s graft sometimes. I’m a professional photographer and writer, and have been steadily plugging away at that for three years now, and this last year it’s really taken off. It’s been hard work getting that off the ground, I’d like to calm down now and do a bit more climbing, get a better balance between climbing and work. Nine months climbing and three months work would be nice! (What!? - Ed)
Earning your living from climbing and writing, do you ever feel under undue pressure to bring back the goods?
No, not really. I’m a freelance writer, with good relationships with magazines like Climber in the UK and Alpinist in the states. Luckily I’m able to write about more than just my holidays, so don’t lose too much sleep if I’ve had a bad trip. I also get equipment support from Arc'teryx and Snow + Rock and as far as they are concerned, as long as I am testing gear out in the mountains to give feedback then the summit is just a bonus.
From BMC Competitions Officer to Extreme Alpinist, that’s some transformation - just how did you pull that off?
I 've never pigeonholed myself as any particular type of climber, it’s all the same thing. For me organising climbing competitions was still using climbing to run away, avoiding doing a real job. But I knew it wasn’t for me long-term. Then on my 30th birthday, I found myself halfway up an aid route on El Cap. Leo Houlding and Patch Hammond were my next-door neighbours, having a wild time on El Nino, a major free line. I remember sitting there and watching them. Watching the way they went for it, no boundaries, giving it their all. It was then that I realised time was running out, and I really wanted to give climbing my everything. On return to the UK I just quit work. As soon as that step was made, the climbing increased, and the big trips started.
What plans for the future?
I’ve got lots of plans, some of which I can’t tell you! The three of us know what direction we want to go in, and have some great objectives. In fact I’m back to Alaska with John this year to do something a little strange. We’re trying the second ascent of a route that I put up, The Knowledge on Mount Hunter. I climbed this on one of my very first trips, but we aided six of the 35 pitches. We want to go back and iron those out; it’s an amazing route, so set up to be at the top end of free mixed climbing difficulties. Plus I’d like to go to the summit, we missed that out last time. Then it’s back to India in the autumn for something similar to Annapurna III.
Any plans to write a book?
Well, I have got a book plan, but I won't say any more. It’s not about my own climbing but a coffee table thing, and will be amazing if we pull it off. But yes, it's not for a long while.
Did any people inspire you?
Loads and none I guess. I think it’s easy to be overawed by heroes and think big climbs are only for superstars when they're within the reach of many climbers. Having said that I do remember seeing Doug Scott and Chris Bonington lecture when I was about ten, and deep down that probably set the agenda. More recently there’s a guy called Voytek Kurtyka, he’s the most visionary alpinist there’s been in recent times, plus his writing is amazing.
How have BMC/MEF grants benefited you?
Well, the set up in Britain is fantastic, it’s probably the best funding system in the world. It doesn’t concentrate on a few high profile expeditions each year, but instead gives contributions to lots of different people who want to head out to the mountains, from top performers to people on their first ever trip. People like me, and almost anyone from my generation of alpinists wouldn’t have been able to do any of our expeditions without this support. It's allowed people to go to some different objectives too, without funding some areas of the world are off limits to all but super rich Japanese expeditions.
British alpinism is on the up at the moment, any ideas why?
It’s definitely very healthy at the moment. As I said, the grants have been an invaluable help, and also you need good role models and inspirations. A lot of today’s climbers are building on the previous generations, it’s all continuous growth. We all owe quite a debt to the 80’s generation; Mick Fowler, Andy Cave, Andy Perkins. That lot shied away from the glossy and expensive trips in vogue with other countries, and hammered away with a DIY, low-key, lightweight approach. In effect they provided a really good template that showed that anyone could put a trip together.
How do British mountaineers compare on the world scene?
Well, we haven’t got a real superstar that stands out but that’s probably a good thing. What we have got is real depth of talent. Lots of people who are good, pushy climbers at the moment, everybody feeding off each other. This depth is so strong, just look at the meaty ascents. Every year Brits are pulling off something good and respectable. And in fine style. Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden actually won the Piolet D’Or last year, which is one sign of the level that British alpinism has now reached. It’s very positive at the moment, but if the grant support ever went, that would all change.
What’s your highpoint so far?
Last trip was pretty way up there. Kenton and myself have been climbing together for a while now and it got pretty emotional. Yeah, we were both there on the summit, bawling our eyes out. Must have been altitude sickness or something!
Finally, have you got one tip for any budding alpinists?
Go for it. Go for your dreams but build up steadily. Alpinism takes a long time, the climbs I really want to achieve are still five years off for me. Just pick a reasonable objective to start with and gradually build up. But definitely give it a try.
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