British pair kayak and climb in Greenland's Cape Farewell region.

Posted by Lindsay Griffin on 06/11/2014
Descending, after the first ascent of Keeping the Faith, South Greenland. Olly Sanders
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Supported with grants from the BMC, the Welsh Sports Association, and the Gino Watkins Memorial Fund, Olly Sanders, on his sixth trip to Greenland, and Liam Fleming made an adventurous, self-contained kayak expedition around the south coast of Greenland, stopping off for two new rock routes.

The aim was to paddle around Cape Farewell, the southernmost tip of Greenland and a committing coastline with high cliffs, no easy landings, and exposed to the ocean swell.

Two boats were collected at Nanortalik, the gateway for any expedition climbing in the Cape Farewell region, then loaded with 23 days food, camping equipment, two 50m ropes and full climbing gear.

Combining two disciplines made for a tight fit, with a substantial amount of gear having to be strapped to the decks.

They then paddled east for several days towards Torssukatak Sound, passing a 1,000-year-old Viking settlement and an inquisitive Minke whale, to the fjord of Narssap Sarqa, where opposite the settlement of Frederiksdal they stopped  to climb the 900m Ikigaitqaqot.

This gave a fine mountaineering day; a lovely ridge scramble with a rope and small rack, and stunning views in the good weather.

Getting a promising weather forecast from Frederiksdal on their mobile phone, the two decided to go for a big day, paddling around both Cape Christian and Cape Farewell.

However, in fog and strong winds they had to pull in after Cape Christian and wait out storm conditions for a day, after which a hard day in big swell, fog, but easing wind, took them around Cape Farewell.

They continued until finding a little sheltered pull-in on the eastern tip of Eggers Island.

Here, they were able to climb a new rock route on the slabby face of Quvperitqaqa (681m), which they named Dance with Seals (eight pitches, HVS 5a).

They now began their journey northwest up the broad channel north of Eggers Island, and then headed east of Pamiagdluk Island to the settlement of Augpilagtok, where they made there only main stop over in three weeks of travel.

From here it was down the Torssukatak Fjord, between the well-known walls of  Maujit Qaqarssuasia (the seaward side of which holds the huge sea cliff - one of the highest in the world - part of which is sometimes referred to as the Thumbnail), and the peaks of the Baron and Baroness on Pamiagdluk opposite.

They eventually reached an old hut in Igdlukasip Tunua fjord, where they had cached food on the way out.

Here, they spent three days, one sheltering from the rain.

However, on the second day they went to try a large mountain face on the side of Natsingnat (1080m).

It was misty to start, but as they climbed out of the cloud they realized the face was bigger than they'd thought. Twelve pitches saw them at the top and the completion of Keeping the Faith (E1 5b). There was some good climbing, but also the usual loose rock one would expect on a big mountain face.

As they paddled back toward Nanortalik it became bitterly cold with snow on the tops.

Although there was still time for further exploration, on receiving a forecast that more bad weather was due in two days time, they decided to get back rather than be stormbound yet again, content that they had succeeded in all their objectives and survived challenging conditions.

Over a 21-day period they had covered 270km. Fourteen days had involved paddling, on another four they had been stormbound, and on three they climbed.

The Welsh Sports Association has a small amount of money to grant aid overseas expeditions. Out of those supported this year, two involved climbing or mountaineering. Further details on eligibility and how to apply are available on the website.



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