The leading British mountaineer and aspirant mountain guide Jules Cartwright has been killed following a fall in the Alps along with his client Julie Colverd.

They died on the approach to the Cassin Route on the Piz Badile in the Bregaglia region of Switzerland. It is reported that the pair, who were roped together, slipped on a steep snow slope and fell 150m.The accident occurred around 7am on Wednesday 30th June 2004, and the next of kin have been informed. Jules Cartwright (29) was from Herefordshire, but had been based in Sheffield for several years. An extremely accomplished and highly motivated mountaineer, he was part of a very active group of young British climbers responsible for many first ascents around the world. A natural in the mountains, he started climbing at a young age with his family and had his first trips to the Alps as a young teenager. His enthusiasm and skill attracted not only talented British climbing partners but also the best of the world's alpine elite.

His climbing covered difficult snow and ice routes in the Himalaya and Alaska, but also the hardest winter routes in Scotland and rock routes on El Capitan in Yosemite and on the big granite walls above Chamonix. In the last couple of years he had been working towards the IFMGA International Guides qualification, the highest professional guiding qualification available for climbing and mountaineering. Although he was termed an ‘Aspirant’ Guide, Jules had already been through several rigorous assessments, was under the direct supervision of a senior guide and was more than qualified for the climb on the Piz Badile. He had his sights set on some of the most futuristic and hardest unclimbed lines in the Himalaya, and his potential and skill were recognised by his peers with two nominations for the prestigious French Piolet D’Or award. The Piolet D’Or (Golden Ice Axe) is awarded by the French Groupe de Haute Montagne and Montagnes magazine for the most outstanding mountaineering achievement of the year.

His first nomination was in 2000 for a climb called "The Knowledge’" on Mount Hunter in Alaska, and his second in 2001 for his outstanding first ascent of the NW ridge of Ama Dablam in the Himalaya. This 12-day alpine style ascent with climbing partner Rich Cross took the enormous and supremely committing North West ridge, a line that had seen almost a dozen previous attempts including a prolonged siege by an eight person Russian team. The ascent was described by the British climbing press as "probably the most significant British ascent in the mountains in the last decade. Put into context of the previous 11 or more attempts on this line together with the Russian’s fixed rope and bolt extravaganza, the young Brits’ climb is a triumph for lightweight alpine commitment.”

His loss is a blow to the British mountaineering community, and the BMC would like to express its condolences to all the family, friends and relatives of both the deceased climbers.

Jules's notable climbs (Europe)
Grand Pilier D’Angle First ascent of Lost in the Dark, Grade ED1 on the North Face. This route was done as a mini enchainment (link) and included an ascent of the Right Hand Pillar of Freney.
Aiguille Sans Nom (3982m) First ascent of a new route, Borderline, Grade ED3, on the North Face.
Lesueur Route on the Petit Dru (3754m) Second Winter ascent, Grade ED3.
Sylchris, West Face, Aiguille de Plan (3673m) First solo Winter ascent. Grade ED2.

Jules's notable climbs (Worldwide)
Kwangde Shar (6194m) North Face, Khumbu Region, Nepal. This was the third ascent of this face and included a new variation finish.
The Knowledge North Buttress Mount Hunter (4442m). Alaska. First ascent 2000. NW Ridge, Ama Dablam (6812m) Khumbu Region, Nepal. First ascent, 2001. Described by Ian Parnell in Climber Magazine as…”probably the most significant British ascent in the mountains in the last decade. Put into context of the previous 11 or more attempts on this line together with the Russian’s fixed rope and bolt extravaganza, the young Brits climb is a triumph for lightweight alpine commitment.”
Meru Sharks Fin (6310m), Gangotri, India Jules made two attempts on this mountain and has climbed higher than any other attempt.
Savoia Kangri, (7263m) Karakorum, Pakistan Jules and his climbing partner reached around 7000m climbing alpine style on this peak, situated next to K2, that is still unclimbed.

« Back