As more climbers make the pilgrimage to Rocklands, South Africa, the strain is starting to show. After one popular section was closed recently, visiting Brit boulderer Dave Mason fears for the future of the area.

Summer rolls around in the Northern Hemisphere and temperatures begin to rise. What’s a modern boulderer to do? Hunker down to training for the winter months? Don a harness and rope? Or fly south?

Like many other climbers I chose to fly south: to Rocklands, South Africa.

Why do people flock here?  Orange and black sandstone boulders for as far as the eye can see, wild flowers littering the ground and good weather for weeks on end. Sounds good?

It is. It’s better than you can possibly imagine, but now the area could be in jeopardy due to a lack of respect for the land and environment. This year a small area on private property was closed due to climbers’ disrespect for the rock and wildlife. And, if we don’t buck up our ideas, other areas could follow.

Rocklands is split between five different landowners: four farmers and Cape Nature. To climb at any of the areas requires a permit that costs between 40 and 60R (£2-3) per day, per person. You may scoff at having to pay to climb but, in my opinion, it’s definitely worth it.

Now – as of late June 2013 – one landowner has closed all their land to climbing (including Tea Garden and all areas from Klein Kliphuis down to Clanwilliam on both sides of the road). Anyone caught climbing in these areas will now be prosecuted and probably fined by the landowner.

Climbers do bring a good deal of money to the area over the summer months and the locals tend to be really friendly and welcoming, but the lack of a local climbing community means that every year we come, climb and leave the place just a little more ruined than when we arrived. This gives the worldwide climbing community a bad name here in the Rocklands and, with no one fighting our cause, the locals are getting sick and tired.

This is my second time here in Rocklands. Yes, I’ve been to dirtier climbing areas but we must not take our climbing here for granted. Discarded climbing tape and litter are an everyday find at the climbing areas; faeces and toilet paper are hidden in caves and under rocks; and huge tick lines and graffiti are abundant.

It’s important to stress that the majority of climbers are considerate of the environment when at the crags, but there are always exceptions to the rule. The closure of one area here in Rocklands is solely due to us and, if we’re not careful, we will lose this stunning destination altogether.

Charite Van Rijswijk, landowner of Travellers Rest, still has a high opinion of climbers:

“I love them! I’ve never had any problems with any of my climbers whatsoever. All the climbers that have stayed at Travellers Rest have been well behaved and respect the area in which they are staying.  The money that is collected from permits must be spent and reinvested in ways that allow the climbers to maintain the environment they are in. Pathways could be marked to stop climbers straying, bins could be put in at the main car parks and clean up days could be organised like those that take place in Fontainebleau and Magic Wood.

Earlier this year I visited Fontainebleau and Alberraccin in Europe to compare them to what I know back home. I was shocked at how much litter and discarded toilet paper there was around the crags, far more than I see in the Rocklands. I think the main reason for the closure of the Tea Garden area was chalk graffiti on the rock near historic graffiti and rock art. We take great pride in our history and rock art and climbers must respect that.”

The Mountain Club of South Africa, like the BMC, is trying to maintain access to the area for climbers but as the area grows in popularity, regard for wildlife and the environment seems to be floating out of the window. We are straying off the paths in order to find new problems or quicker routes to the crag resulting in trampled flowers, bushes and vegetation.

If you’re planning to climb here, then just remember crag etiquette:

Crag Etiquette: a reminder of some do’s and don’ts when visiting the crag

1. Bury faeces and put used toilet paper in a bag and take it home
2. Stick to the marked paths
3. Take all litter, including climbing tape, home with you
4. Don’t graffiti or chip the rock
5. Brush off tick marks used whilst climbing
6. Be aware of the level of noise you and your friends are making whilst at the crag

If climbers open their eyes to what’s happening then, hopefully, we can rescue the situation and preserve Rocklands for future generations to enjoy.

“Rocklands offers some of the best bouldering I’ve ever experienced. It’s crucial that we, as a climbing community, respect and protect the area. We must work with the local community to make sure that the environment is cherished so that future generations can enjoy the rocks here.”

- Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, on her second trip to Rocklands

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