Island Peak is one of the highest and certainly one of the most popular of the designated “trekking peaks” in Nepal, with literally hundreds of people making the summit each year. The beautiful profile of the mountain and stunning views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu and Ama Dablam, combined with easy access and a pleasant, sunny approach make it an essential on any high-altitude trekker's list.

The mountain was first “discovered” and named by the famous Brit Eric Shipton in 1952, and first climbed the following year by Evans, Gregory, Wylie and Tenzing Norgay in preparation for their (successful) Everest bid. Imja Tse was the peak on which they perfected their oxygen systems before going for it on the big hill. Nowadays, any number of commercial companies will guide you up its slopes (for an appropriate fee, of course), or if you have the experience and are suitably acclimatised and equipped, it makes a wonderful adventure to ascend the peak by your own means.

Base Camp at Pareshaya Gab (5078m) is reached in two easy days from Dingboche, itself just 2 short days up the Khumbu Valley from Namche Bazaar. It is always a very busy place, so remember to chill out and admire the spectacular situation and scenery as you compete for tent pitches with other climbers! After heavy snowfall, the slopes hereabouts can be avalanche prone, so take care on the ascent. Climbing for around 1.5 hours above Pareshaya will bring you to the rocky tent platforms of the high camp at 5700m. After a night here you climb a rocky gully (grade 1 scrambling) and several short rock steps, before emerging and traversing onto a ridge. This is followed in an exhilarating and exposed position to the snout of the summit glacier. The glacier contains several crevasses, but leads, relatively easily, to a 100m snow and ice slope (40°) up onto the ridge, which is followed in a spectacular position to the summit. Once on top, you can revel in one of the most awe-inspiring summit views you are ever likely to see. The route is about alpine grade PD+, so be prepared.

Island peak can be climbed pre or post monsoon (February – April or October – November), and December may also give clear if very cold weather.

Island Peak
Trekking & Climbing in Nepal (Razzetti)
The Trekking Peaks of Nepal (O’Connor)
Schneider’s expensive but detailed 1:50,000 range covers the entire trekking region of Nepal
1:50000 Mandala Maps are locally available but not as detailed

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