Aconcagua, known as the stone sentinel by the Incas, is the highest mountain outside of the Himalaya (and in the Western hemisphere) at 6956m. It lies close to the Chile/Argentine border, about 100 miles North East of Santiago, but is wholly within Argentina. The views are spectacular, and combine with relatively straightforward terrain on the normal route to make this one of the most regularly ascended “high” mountains of the world.

Travel
You can get to Aconcagua either from Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina or from Santiago, the capital of Chile. From Buenos Aires it is a couple of hours flying time to Mendoza (or a very long coach journey). From Chile you can either take a 40 min plane trip back across the Andes to Mendoza, or go by road. By road you have the choice of Collectivo taxi (4 passengers sharing a taxi) or luxury coach. The advantage of the collectivos is that they are usually quicker to clear customs. It would also be possible to avoid travelling to Mendoza at all if you fly in to Santiago and have organised your permit in advance. Be aware that pickpocketing and robbing is rife in Buenos Aires so be on your guard – there is a special 24hr English police helpline in the city that can be reached by dialling 101.

Seasons
The best time to climb is December to early March, but February seems to be the most popular. The Pacific is only 90 miles west and this is where Aconcagua receives its bad weather from, as it blows in, cools and forms a white cloud over the summits, usually a sign of high winds and snow. These conditions can also bring dramatic and dangerous electrical storms in the summer, a good reason to descend! Forecasts by park rangers are drawn from their own experience and Chile radio stations, and are usually quite reliable.

Climbing permit / Visas
Although UK nationals do not require a visa to enter Argentina, a permit to enter the National Park and climb the mountain is mandatory. You must go in person to the Subsecretariat of Tourism office in the centre of Mendoza to obtain your climbing permit (the office is about 100 yards from the central tourist office - the tourist office will be able to tell you where to go).  You should have your insurance details and next of kin contacts to hand when buying your permit. Rangers at various control stations check permits regularly.

The routes
The normal route is by far the most popular climb on the mountain. It is essentially a non-technical path, but do not underestimate the length, height and extreme weather that the route experiences – this is a big mountain and there are fatalities every year. The Polish Glacier route is a considerable step up in difficulty, requiring glacier travel and alpine techniques and experience. For the hardcore alpinist, the immense south face remains one of the biggest and most difficult objectives in the Andes, with plenty of objective hazards, difficult climbing and a high level of commitment.

The normal route – a brief description
You will be in good company on this spectacular and rewarding route – there are thousands of ascents each year!

Mendoza to Punta del Inca (2700m) / Los Penitentes: Buses to Punta del Inca leave from the Mendoza central terminal all day; the trip takes about 5 hours by stopping bus or about 3 hours by air conditioned express. Punta Del Inca is the trailhead and set off point for the South face and Normal routes. Los Penitentes is the set off point for the East side of the mountain, including the Polish Glacier route. Accommodation at Punta del Inca Hotel (Hosteria del Inca), costs around 30P and is good quality but should be booked in advance. You can also camp by the old church and bathe in the hot springs under the stars.

From Punta del Inca to Plaza de Mulas (4300m): From Punta del Inca to the first campsite, Confluencia at 3000m takes about 4-5 hours. Shortly after leaving the road to Chile, you'll find a checkpoint that will want to see your permit. They give you a plastic bag that you have to use to carry your garbage out with you and failure to hand this in on your return results in a US$100 spot fine! For acclimatisation and to avoid a really long walk it is recommended to spend a night at Confluencia. In fact it is worth then spending a further acclimatisation day walking up to Plaza Francia and back for an awesome view of the South face. Do not rush up to Plaza del Mulas as it is high altitude! From Confluencia to Plaza del Mulas takes about 8-10 hours. From Confluencia you will need to carry water, unless you have a filter (recommended). Plaza de Mulas has a hotel (40 minutes walk from the main base camp) that offers accommodation ranging from full board to tented accommodation. Meals are available and they can arrange outbound mules and transport to Santiago or Mendoza. It is also possible to camp here in your own tent.

From Plaza de Mulas to the summit (6956m): The "normal route" leads to the summit of Aconcagua without the need for technical climbing. However, due to the possibility of very low temperatures (below -30ºC), heavy snow and/or storms, and especially the high altitude, it can be very dangerous! Good equipment, physical fitness and being alert for signs of altitude sickness are essential for a successful and safe trip. The way to the summit follows a trail up to around 400m below the summit – you then enter the "Canaleta" (a field of horrible loose scree) where you should try to stay on snow as long as you can. Crampons may be found useful for this stretch, but are not essential. At the end of the Canaleta, you reach a ridge where you turn left for the top.

Campsites from Plaza de Mulas to the summit:

· Canada (5050m).
· Nido de Condores (5300m): A large plateau overlooking the surrounding mountains. Good views. Covered with snow, but some rock patches for camping. Carefully select your campsite bearing in mind the possibility of heavy storms.
· Berlin (5950m): There are a couple of huts to be used in emergencies, but don't rely on them. From the huts, continue a further 100m to avoid all the garbage around the huts if you are camping.
· Independencia (6350m): This is a ruin now, but can still form a serviceable campsite.

Miscellaneous - There is usually a doctor at the Plaza de Mulas base camp, which is medically well equipped and has a Gamow bag for the treatment of AMS. The best time of year to go is January and February when temperatures on the mountain will be around 20°C up to 3000m in the day, and down to freezing at 3500m at night. At the highest camp (Berlin), night temperatures will be at least -20ºC. Expect hundreds of people in Plaza de Mulas.

Food and equipment - Food supplies can be bought at supermarkets in Santiago or Mendoza similar to supermarkets in UK, but don't expect to find specialist mountain food. Bring any technical equipment with you, as it is mostly unavailable to buy in Argentina. Remember that although the normal route may be non-technical, the threat of frostbite is very real so bring appropriate protective clothing. You should also consider an ice axe and crampons in case of snowy conditions - although most can manage without these, it would be a shame if the lack of them prevented your ascent. As a general guide, the gear required will be similar to a winter ascent of a 13-14000ft peak in the US or Europe.

Fuel - Good quality white petrol (Benzina Blanca) is available in Mendoza, and also through AYMARA at Punta Del Inca. Camping Gaz C206 cartridges for "Bluet" stoves are available in Mendoza and at the Hotel 

Mule Hire - Generally, a two-person group approaching via the normal route would need one pack mule and one mule driver. There are a couple of companies that run mules up to the various base camps round the mountain. These can be arranged through AYMARA or Grajales either in Mendoza or in Punta Del Inca. Costs vary but count on approximately $150 per day for a mulateer and 2 mules. Try to establish whether the fee includes river crossings, pay half in advance, pack gear in durable bags and don’t pack anything fragile! One mule load is 60kg and unless you have a special agreement, they take the luggage to Plaza de Mulas within one day meaning that you will need to carry camping or bivi kit for staying overnight at Confluencia.

UIAA Medical Commission advice

Books
The Andes: A trekking guide (Biggar), general guide including a section on Aconcagua
Argentina Uraguay & Paraguay (Lonely Planet)
The South American Handbook (Trade and Travel publications), backpacking in Chile and Argentina
Aconcagua - A climbing guide (Secor)
Mountaineering in the Andes (Neate), published by the Expedition Advisory Centre 1987
Trekking & Climbing in the Andes (Pitkethly & Harper)

Maps
Aconcagua 1:50000 – Climbers and trekkers map including approaches (available from Cordee or SAE)

Internet
www.summitpost.com/mountains/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/11 Good general site for information
http://www.multimania.com/fcrampe/ACONCAGUA/US/US1/aconcagua1.html Account of an ascent via the Polish route
http://www.aconcagua.com/welcome.htm Official Aconcagua site

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