For the past two weeks, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk – top climber and BMC TV star - has been in Hueco Tanks, Texas. She's just climbed the Fred Nicole classic Barefoot on Sacred Ground (V12). So, with one week left, it’s time to find out more.
Mina has climbed a whole host of classics, including Power of Silence (V10), Chbalanke (V11) and Le Chinkel (V11), but the icing on the cake was an ascent of Barefoot on Sacred Ground (V12) where she ventured into the unknown on the seldom-climbed top out,
What are your impressions of Hueco Tanks?
I really like it. It is a nice mix of climbing and laid-back life style. There are lots of good boulders close together, enough for a lifetime of climbing. The rock can be sharp in places, which means resting more than usual but the climbing is also very physical and involved so the body needs rest too. The park has fairly strict rules (with all but North Mountain requiring a tour guide) which can be frustrating, but if you’re organised it doesn't need to be an issue. The weather is lovely, often you can sit and enjoy the sun and then climb in good conditions in the shade.
Why did you decide to visit Hueco?
I’ve always wanted to come here, so it was a case of when, not if, really. Hueco is so well known and has so many classic problems it would be a travesty for a boulderer not to come here at some point.
How does it compare to other bouldering Meccas you have visited?
It’s unique and good for different reasons. Although I love the smooth sandstone of Fontainebleau, Hueco is blessed with much better weather and you can depend on it. It has a similar climate to South Africa and I think that is the place most comparable to Hueco that I have visited. The climbing here is very strength based, where other venues are perhaps more technique based. I don't feel like I would get weaker climbing here, it gives you a full body work out and the climbing provides interesting movement that is fun to work out.
There is a lot to-do here and it must be very easy to run around like a headless chicken, how have you restrained yourself?
Well I didn't to start with. I exhausted myself in the first few days and learnt the hard way that Hueco climbing requires rest days. I have been really psyched by some lines here and I know that I need to be rested for them so with that in mind I have tried to be tactical about taking rest before trying to send harder climbs. Some things you know you can do a bit tired, others you know you need to have your tank 100% full.
You have just climbed Barefoot on Sacred Ground, a V12 established by Fred Nicole in 1998. What made you want to try this line?
It is such a great line. From the get go this was one of the top climbs on my list. It has nice holds, good, interesting movement and a spicy finish: what more could you want? The climb actually has options for the finish: you can drop off at an obvious hueco, climb right into See Spot Run (a V6 next to it) or continue straight up the arête. For me the line was always to continue up the arête but this certainly adds some extra moves and effort (I fell once in this section from the start!).
The day I climbed it was really windy and I wasn't 100% sure about having a go, I didn't want to get blown off the top! I rallied and gave it a go, surprising myself by climbing throughout the crux first go and finding myself up high on the top out section with numb hands and biceps that were not playing ball anymore. I had to bail and was really disappointed, I felt so pumped and powered out. Half an hour later I tried again and found myself up there, still with numb hands, but with more determination. I think I scared my spotters a bit but I managed to hold on and climb to the top! :)
It's pretty high, did you get scared?
Oh yes. I was a bundle of nerves at the top…not enough to give up though ;)
What problems would you recommend to others visiting Hueco Tanks?
Oooo let's see:
The Maiden - V0
Ghettoblaster - V2
Jigsaw - V5
That Hi-pro Glow - V6
The Egg – V8
Choir Boys - V9
Chblanke - V11
Barefoot on Sacred Ground - V12
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is sponsored by: Arc'teryx, Five Ten and Element Chiropractic Clinic.
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