Is this the World's hardest big wall free climb?

Posted by Lindsay Griffin on 07/09/2009
Iker Pou, pitch five (8c+/9a), Orbayu. Tim Kemple

The Spanish Basque brothers, Eneko and Iker Pou, have finally made a one-day red point of their new route Orbayu on the West Face of the Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa. With a crux estimated at 8c+/9a the brothers feel their 13-pitch free climb could be the hardest to date on a 'big wall'.

Orbayu climbs four new pitches on the overhanging red walls crossed by the Mediterrano Route (Gallego/Gallego/Gallego/Ortiz, 1980: 550m: A3 and 6a) towards the left side of the face, then six pitches of the Mediterrano, followed by three pitches up the final section of the ultra classic Rabada-Navarro (Rabada/Navarro, 1962, 700m of climbing, now free at 6b).

Over three days during the summer of 2008 the brothers inspected what would become the fifth and sixth pitches, the hardest section of the proposed new route, and were convinced that they could be free climbed.

They returned in mid June this year and worked on the route for two months. Until the start of August the weather was quite wintry and they made little progress, but after, temperatures started to rise and they had better results.

Protection is from a mixture of nuts, Friends, pegs and bolts, some of the latter, particularly on pitch six, rather ancient. Pitches one, two and three are 8a+, 8a, and 8a respectively. Pitch four is a mere 7a but the fifth pitch, 37m long and a free ascent of an old A3 pitch on Mediterrano, where a couple of new bolts were added, provides the crux.

The pitch begins with a section of intricate 7c+/8a. This leads to a boulder problem move of around Font 8a+/8b. The last part to the belay was thought to be 8b, and if that wasn't enough the fall potential on this pitch is over 20m.

After another pitch of 8a+ (also previously A3), the climb on the top wall eases considerably: 6b+ down to 5 on the last section of the Rabada-Navarro up the left arête.

The final redpoint took just eight hours, making Orbayu the fifth big wall free route that the Pou brothers have completed on this motif of Spanish climbing. In 1997 they managed to free the 500m Pilar del Cantábrico at 8a+. In 2003 they climbed Zunbeltz at 8b+, and in 2006 Quinto Imperio at 8b and their new 250m testpiece Lurgorri at 8c+.

Obviously, the grade has not been confirmed, and is unlikely to be so by other climbers in the near future: most of the Pou brothers' other hard free ascents on the Naranjo have failed to have second ascents.

To look at other big wall free climbs of similar status, we need to turn to Yosemite's El Capitan, where in 2008 Tommy Caldwall and Justin Sjong made a free ascent of Magic Mushroom at 5.13b/14a (around 8b+). At 28 pitches, this is considerably longer and more sustained - many pitches are 8a and above - than Orbayu.

Also of note is the Dihedral Wall, which Caldwell freed in 2004 at 14a. The crux move is probably harder than anything on Magic Mushroom but the climb less sustained.
 



« Back

Post a comment Print this article

This article has been read 886 times

TAGS

Click on the tags to explore more

RELATED ARTICLES

Spanish secrets: top 5 best mid-grade sport climbing destinations
3
Spanish secrets: top 5 best mid-grade sport climbing destinations

Planning a winter sport-climbing escape? Leave the crowds and polish behind with these five best-kept mid-grade Spanish sport secrets. Dos cervezas por favor.
Read more »

Multi-national team climbs hard and free in the Bilibino
0
Multi-national team climbs hard and free in the Bilibino

After last year's discovery by Australians Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner of an exiting area of big granite walls north of the Arctic Circle in Siberia, three teams have recently travelled to the area, hoping to add more new free routes.
Read more »

The reality of living the dream
0
The reality of living the dream

Ever dreamed of running a climbers' refuge in sunnier climes? Ben Williams catches up with climbing couple Nic and Ella to share their journey of dusting off crags and building a place in the Spanish sun.
Read more »

Post a Comment

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
0

There are currently no comments, why not add your own?

RELATED ARTICLES

Spanish secrets: top 5 best mid-grade sport climbing destinations
3

Planning a winter sport-climbing escape? Leave the crowds and polish behind with these five best-kept mid-grade Spanish sport secrets. Dos cervezas por favor.
Read more »

Multi-national team climbs hard and free in the Bilibino
0

After last year's discovery by Australians Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner of an exiting area of big granite walls north of the Arctic Circle in Siberia, three teams have recently travelled to the area, hoping to add more new free routes.
Read more »

The reality of living the dream
0

Ever dreamed of running a climbers' refuge in sunnier climes? Ben Williams catches up with climbing couple Nic and Ella to share their journey of dusting off crags and building a place in the Spanish sun.
Read more »

BMC MEMBERSHIP
Join 82,000 BMC members and support British climbing, walking and mountaineering. Membership only £16.97.
Read more »
BMC SHOP
Great range of guidebooks, DVDs, books, calendars and maps.
All with discounts for members.
Read more »
TRAVEL INSURANCE
Get covered with BMC Insurance. Our five policies take you from the beach to Everest.
Read more »