Gold Fever

Posted by Dave Lucas on 03/09/2007
Photo: Dave Lucas.

There’s gold in them thar hills. And Dave Lucas is in the grip of its madness.

The wind whipping up, we huddled around a fire in the very cave where my friend Mohammed had lived to the age of 12. We were reminiscing on the days climbing when I heard Mohammed and his companion murmur about Dahab - Arabic for gold.

My ears pricked up. Climbing suddenly forgotten I leaned over and asked him what he was on about. He grinned sheepishly, and told me a Bedouin tale, hundreds of years old, passed down from generation to generation. The tale was long and intricate, but concluded in a box of gold being left on a ledge on a mountain “too steep to climb to, and too hidden to climb down to”.

Great story, but I assumed that they didn’t know where the peak was. On the contrary, Mohammed explained. He claimed to know it very well, but without climbing equipment he couldn’t reach the ledge. My head began to feel strange, fuzzy. I couldn’t concentrate, my eyes couldn’t focus. Mohammed was still talking to me, his mouth moving, but I wasn’t listening. I was dreaming.

Gold! I’m going to be rich. But will I have to share it? If it’s coins I could go down first and then hide them in my chalk bag. Curses, what if it’s cursed - I’ll be famous but dead. I bet we can’t get it out the country, I can’t just stick a bar of gold in my hand luggage. We’ll have to find it, bury it and leave a treasure map for my grandkids. It may have been taken already. Perhaps not, but we’ve got to go quickly, we’ll smuggle it out somehow. God. What if the box is empty?

I could still feel the heat and smell the acrid smoke of the donkey turds fire we were cooking on, but I was on a different planet. I’d caught a bad case of gold fever.

The next day, after a fitful sleep, we packed our camels and set off - destination Gold Mountain. The mountain came into view and on every ledge my eyes could see a box laden with gold, covered in the dust and dirt from its hundreds of years of rest. Mohammed squinted, pointed to a ledge, and there it was - a box like object below a small bush. Wow.

We raced up the approach, scrambled up a boulder-filled gully to the right of the peak, and continued up past fragrant bushes of mint, oregano and other plants of varying medicinal properties. On the col we balanced our way along a thin ridge to gain the summit and set the anchors for the abseil. I soon bullied my way to the front of the rope, to be the one who could descend onto the ledge and discover the gold. I was to be the one to open the box, to have this ancient treasure named after him.

As I slowly slid down the rope other thoughts skimmed my mind. Should I hide the treasure and tell the others there was nothing? Should I bring it back up to share equally? If karma does exist then surely it shouldn’t be toyed with when dealing with ancient cursed Egyptian gold? Aren’t our guides the real owners anyway?

My feet landed on the ledge and heart-in-mouth I began to make my way to the bush. Damn, oh damn. It’s just a rock, a rock. Our box was nothing but a rock. I frantically searched the ledge, something must be here, it was so inaccessible, the perfect hiding place. I peered under every rock expecting a tunnel entrance or a buried box. But half-an-hour later, shrill cries from the others enquiring if they were rich yet brought me back down to reality.

“There’s nothing,” I replied. And nothing there was, but rocks, dirt and a bat poo filled cave. Fred shouted down that perhaps the hoard of skeleton zombies destined to protect it had hidden their riches from us. This didn’t improve my blackening mood. I felt deflated, hopes of opulence dashed.

Turning to prusik back up the abseil line I faced a great corner crack that arrowed 50m back up to the summit. And as I lurched my way back up the rope my dreams shifted from those of gold to those of cracks. This line was impeccable, if you could somehow reach this classic corner crack from the ground. But you couldn’t, could you?

An hour later our despondent team trudged back to the valley floor. And there, at the very foot of the pinnacle’s deep red granite eastern flank was the perfect hand crack rising 30m up into the slabs, walls and cracks above. Hell. It’d never make me rich, but I suddenly cheered up, I had found my gold; an untouched, clean, natural, unforced line. Two hours later the route was in the bag, F.I.G. J.A.M., went at 130m of E2 (5a,5a/b, 5b, 5c) and is without a doubt a new classic of the Sinai Desert, if I do say so myself. Everybody else had had an equally successful afternoon and the newly named Jebel Dahab now is the proud owner of five new routes.

I’m sure I’m not the first visitor to be overcome by madness in the desert. Dahab has been a part of the Sinai Peninsula for as long as people have inhabited it. The first recorded people to enter the interior of the Sinai were the Ancient Asiatics and Egyptians. A king wrote to the Pharaoh Amenhotep III: “Let my brother send gold in great quantity, for in my brother’s land gold is as plentiful as dust.” Sadly since then the dust seems to have severely outnumbered the gold, but as we were finding there were still plenty of riches for the taking.

In 1882, A. H. Keane wrote concerning Arabia Petræa: “The Southern-most tip is made up of the massive volcanic highlands cut into huge cathedrals of stone watching over the wadis deep below. Here the land derives its grandeur and peculiar charm from the very nakedness of the rocky heights. In some of the wadis the hillsides are scored by countless seams of the brightest hues, their fantastic designs producing an indescribable pictorial effect. What is seemingly the mere outline of a distant landscape reflects a charming and almost magical vista as if the bare rocks were clothed with woods or vineyards, or their summits capped with eternal snows.”

And it is these “huge granite cathedrals” that we’ve been climbing on for the last five years. I’ve been organising expeditions here under the name of The Vertical World, to get groups of climbers to help me with the enormous task of new routing and recording the endless amount of unclimbed rock. It’s only now that I’m starting to collect enough information to make the Sinai Desert a truly worthwhile exotic climbing destination. But we’re nearly there. So come along on our next trip to find the next hidden treasure. And if the unimaginable happens and you’ve had enough of climbing, then just head to the clear blue waters of the Red Sea and pick up a tan.

Dave Lucas is going back to the desert this October with another expedition with one, two and three week sections available. Email dave@verticalworld.co.uk for details.



« Back

Post a comment Print this article

This article has been read 136 times

TAGS

Click on the tags to explore more

Post a Comment

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
0

There are currently no comments, why not add your own?

BMC MEMBERSHIP
Join 82,000 BMC members and support British climbing, walking and mountaineering. Membership only £16.97.
Read more »
BMC SHOP
Great range of guidebooks, DVDs, books, calendars and maps.
All with discounts for members.
Read more »
TRAVEL INSURANCE
Get covered with BMC Insurance. Our five policies take you from the beach to Everest.
Read more »