Previously unattempted faces on relatively major Alpine peaks are something of a rarity. Now there is one less, for on the first day of spring an Italian trio made the first ascent of the East South East Face of Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland's Bernina range.

After a three-hour approach from the Boval Hut, local activists Luca Maspes, Emanuel Panizza and Christian Turk spent eight hours climbing the steep mixed face left of the classic North East Ridge- Crest of Hope in bitterly cold temperatures

Situated just north of Piz Bernina, the most easterly 4,000m peak in the Alps, Piz Morteratsch (3,751m) enjoys overwhelming popularity, offering magnificent views and a delightful Normal Route up the North Ridge (PD-) from the Fuorcla da Boval. The long North East Ridge, which after the North Ridge is considered the best route on the mountain, is also an established classic. However, it has become rather less popular in recent years.

The Bernina range is predominantly about high-mountain, snow and ice climbing, and there are many superb routes in this category. On the north side of the range, any rock climbing tends to require experience in handling loose material, and while this was less of a problem several decades ago, most modern alpinists prefer the feel of sound granite rather than having to negotiate sections of large unstable blocks.

The upper section of the Crest of Hope is steep and requires care with large loose blocks and flakes, giving it a serious feel with bags of 'high mountain ambience'. Keeping to the crest, although harder, is definitely less hazardous than the flanks, and the route, which involves 900m of climbing, gets a grade of AD+/D-.

Not surprisingly the c600m East South East Face has predominantly dreadful rock, and would be too dangerous to contemplate in anything less than cold, snowy conditions. With predicted temperatures of around -18°C at the bottom of the face and nearer to -25°C on the summit, the climb was certainly free of objective danger, but the three Italians struggled to keep hands and feet from becoming totally numb. Short sections, notably on the entry pitch, which was a rock wall, had to be climbed without gloves.

The trio used a few pegs, nuts and cams for protection and belays, and took 13 hours for the round trip from the Boval Hut, descending via the North Ridge. They have named their new route Il Grande Freddo (The Great Cold). On the accompanying photo, taken from the Alpine Club guide to the Bernina and Bregaglia, the new route is in blue, while the line immediately right is the Crest of Hope.

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