Decision reached on fixed ab point for Sergeant Crab Slabs

Posted by BMC on 12/12/2005

The recent meeting of climbers to discuss the situation at Sergeant Crag Slabs decided that a fixed gear abseil station should be installed at the crag…

The Lakes Area Committee of the BMC held an Open Meeting, attended by about 40 people, at the Sun Hotel Troutbeck Bridge about the means of descent from Sergeant Crag Slabs in an attempt to resolve the conflict over the use of a bolted abseil chain. The current situation where bolts had been placed and chopped unilaterally was anarchic and to be deplored. The main argument for the bolted anchor was environmental, that this was the least damaging means of descent from the crag, other methods, including walking down, all having greater environmental impact. The National Trust as landowner was happy to support climbing provided that the environmental impact was minimalised. It was emphasised that English Nature, following the Wildlife & Countryside Act and the CRoW Act has greatly enhanced powers to both prosecute individuals and to close sensitive sites where environmental damage is excessive and climbers should be aware of these changed circumstances. Following some heated debate the following motion was put to the meeting: "This Open Meeting supports the view of The National Trust that vegetation to the top and sides of Sergeant Crag Slabs would be at risk if climbers were to descend on foot and recommends to the BMC that the Fixed Gear Abseil Station be re-instated". About 68% of those present voted in favour of the motion. It was emphasised by both sides that this vote applied to Sergeant Crag Slabs only and did not encourage the placing of bolts in any other location. The local Area Committee of the BMC will now pass this recommendation to the next meeting of the Lake District Mountain Liaison Group. If and when bolts are placed activists who are against the proposal are asked to express their objections by democratic means and to refrain from direct action. If there is sufficient opposition another Open Meeting will be held in a year's time to review the situation.



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