International support is needed urgently to prevent restrictive regulations in Peru's Cordillera Blanca.

Lindsay Griffin, Chair of the BMC International Committee, reports that new and highly restrictive regulations for the Huascarán National Park (PNH) have just been tentatively approved. Unless rescinded these will make climbing and adventurous trekking largely undesirable for the vast majority of mountaineers. Immediate international support is needed to lobby against the Regulations for Public Use, which are currently in legal limbo, having been signed by the proper authority but not yet published in the official government register, El Peruano. Officials say they are still accepting comment. The National Park, which encompasses nearly all the Cordillera Blanca, was established in 1975 and since that time there has been no restriction on climbing any peak in the range.

The new Regulations for Public Use are, currently, only available in Spanish but the American Alpine Club (AAC) is in the process of having the entire document translated into English for the World climbing community. However, articles that will have the most impact on climbers (mandatory use of guides and local services, highly restricted access etc) have been translated below with very little comment. Most climbers reading this will understand the implications. Leading the fight against this is local resident and long-time Peruvian activist, Jim Bartle, together with full support from the AAC. However, at this stage it is believed any response from members of the international climbing community, voicing their concern and strongly questioning the implication of these regulations, will be greatly beneficial.

This is a matter of urgency, so please write now to: Leoncio Alvarez Vasquez Jefe de Instituto Nacional de Recursos Nacionales Email - lalvarez@inrena.gob.pe Messages should be copied to the secretary - jbarrios@inrena.gob.pe and to the Head of Protected Areas - csalinas@inrena.gob.pe FAX - (00) 51 1 224 3218. FAX is the preferred method, as it apparently enters the system formally, as if it were hand delivered. Messages in English are reported to be perfectly acceptable, though those who can should write in Spanish. Leoncio Alvarez is chief of operations for INRENA, the governmental agency that oversees Peru's natural resources, including the operation of the country’s park systems.

Those wishing to write a more lengthy response should emphasize: the spectacular scenery, magnificent climbing and exploratory experience to be found of the Cordillera Blanca; its status as a World Mecca in which to practise modern, progressive Alpinism, and the traditional ease of access and lack of bureaucracy that has increasingly proved one of its greatest attractions to foreign mountaineers. However, it is also very important to stress that mountaineers and adventurous trekkers are naturally concerned about the environment in which they operate and until now have accepted that the regulations and costs imposed on visitors to the National Park have been generally well thought out, well-intended and in keeping with the protection of the natural environment. It must not appear that climbers simply can’t be bothered to pay their fair share.

The key articles affecting climbers and trekkers are;

Article 7.1: Concerning the prohibition of "free entries" for the tourist activities which imply risk for the visitor: Entrance to the PNH for the practice of adventure tourism, rock/ice climbing or other forms of tourism which imply risk to the visitor shall be done through the use of tourist service providers, who are responsible for the safety and behaviour of the visitors during their stay inside the PNH, which cannot exceed thirty days.

Article 25: The Tourism and Recreation Use Plan classifies the mountains according to their degree of difficulty. This classification will be available to the public in the offices where entrance tickets to the PNH are sold. In the case of mountains designated ‘difficult’ due to circumstances of climatic variation, the guide may climb with only two people at a time. In any case it is the responsibility of the guide to ascertain the capacity of clients for this type of climb.

Article 221.a: Each visitor must walk only using the authorized trails, circuits, visiting sites, and routes, respecting the park signs.

Article 6.3: Concerning the tourist season according to the means of providing tourist and recreation services: the PNH is open to the public all year in the various tourist and recreation zones (this refers to areas accessible by car). For the safety of the visitors the wilderness zones and the Pastoruri glacier will be seasonally closed during the months of December to March due to the adverse climatic conditions. Complemenary, Final and Transitory Dispositives At the close of each tourist season (October) the chief of the PNH will release a list of the trails, circuits, routes (this potentially includes specific mountains and climbing routes) and itineraries eligible to be used during the following tourist season, according to advances in the implementation of the Tourism and Recreation Use Plan.

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