In a British Medical Journal report, Dr Andrew Sutherland, a medical advisor on Everest expeditions, questions why there are not fewer deaths on Everest despite improved technology and a better understanding of the need for acclimatisation.
According to unofficial figures, 15 people have died on Everest in 2006. Dr Sutherland suggests that poor understanding of altitude is to blame. It's difficult for people to know how they will respond to altitude and therefore climbers need to pay attention to their ability at altitude.
The practical advice he offers is that climbers need to check they are not moving too slowly. The slowest safe rate, he suggests, is around 100 metres every one to one-and-a-half hours. Anything slower than this is a sign that something is wrong and climbers should turn back.
BMC President Charles Clarke has commented on BBC Online - see external link below.
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