Following positive meetings with Denbighshire Countryside Service and local bird expert John Lowton-Roberts the climbing restrictions for the Eglwyseg valley for 2010 have been agreed. The countryside service praised climbers' behaviour and are keen to encourge responsible use by climbers of the cliffs in this Area of Oustanding Natural Beauty.

The bird nesting restrictions in this popular limestone area are quite complicated, as several pairs of protected birds nest on various cliffs in the Eglwyseg Valley (and confusingly keep changing their nest sites).

Local bird enthuthiast John Lowton-Roberts (although not a climber) has intimate knowledge of these cliffs and every year keeps an eye out for the birds' nesting sites. Each spring he marks out the restricted areas using small metal markers (green side, ok to climb, red side no climbing). However what makes his work remarkable is that he is so "on the ball" that as soon as there is evidence that the birds do not use a particular site, he immediately informs the BMC, lifts the restriction and removes the markers.

This year restrictions on these cliffs run from Feb 15th until July 15th and are currently in force on the following sites:-

Craig Arthur - no climbing between "Digitron" and "Chilean Moon"

Monk's Buttress - no climbing between "Only a Gesture" and "Little Deal"

Trevor Area - no climbing on any of the new routes and areas to the west of "All Fudd Up". In addition, as this site is part of a Special Area of Conservation and an SSSI, concerns have been raised by the Countryside Service and CCW about excessive rock clearance and bolting. Climbers are asked to refrain form further bolting and rock removal here until further discussions have occured with local land mangers and conservationists.

Independence Quarry - all routes subject to the seasonal restriction.

All of the sites with restrictions will be actively monitored, and as soon as there is evidence that it's felt safe to lift the restrictions, then the RAD will be updated.

Further info and updates wil be on the BMC's Regional Access Database

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