The usual hill walking hotspots get so cluttered up in summer they can become uncomfortable. Why not escape the crowds in the Lakes and Snowdonia and head to one of these amazing alternative destinations?
Britain and Ireland are blessed with a wealth of amazing hill walking possibilities, but head to somewhere like Scafell Pike or Snowdon on a crowded summer Saturday and you'd be forgiven for thinking we all had to cram on to one or two mountains.
Why do so many hill walkers act like herd animals? With even a little bit of imagination and willingness to stray off the beaten track, you can find extraordinary peace and solitude, even at the height of summer. These islands not as crowded as you think. Go out and discover them for yourself.
1. The Cheviots
Collecting water on a wild camp in the Cheviots. Pic: Duncan Andison / Shutterstock
The difference between England and Scotland might seem a big deal politically, but in the borderland between the two it becomes a lot more fuzzy, particularly where the Cheviots are concerned. These rolling, roomy hills straddle that changeable line and have soaked up more than their fair share of blood over the centuries, but the legacy of border battles and the infamous ‘Reiver ’ period all adds to the historical fascination (plus kids love a bit of gore).
In common with most inland areas of the Northumberland National Park, the Cheviots are almost entirely free of coaches, crowds and clutter, even during peak times (indeed, the area is so ‘empty’ it has been designated Europe’s biggest Dark Sky Park). Like any moorland, these granite hills are exposed to the elements, but pick a sunny day in August, when the heather is blooming purple and the sky is scattered with fleecy cloud, and they will be anything but bleak.
Where to stay :Wooler is a good bet for straight-out-the-door walks, Belford or Berwick-upon-Tweed give you a dose of coast into the bargain but involve a (manageable) drive to the hills.
2. Arran
Cir Mhor and the swooping ridges of northern Arran. Pic: Lighttraveler / Shutterstock
Okay, the mountainous microcosm of Arran is no secret to Scots, but for Sassenachs journeying up from the south this extraordinary isle tends to be overlooked in favour of the Highland heartland further north. But the miraculous trick pulled by Arran is to somehow bring the atmosphere of the north west Highlands associated with Skye or Torridon – that powerful combination of mountain and sea – to a landmass that is almost within sight of Glasgow. The ferry journey complicates things a bit, but the accessibility-to-spectacle ratio is still remarkably good.
At 874 metres (2867 feet), Goat Fell is the island’s high point, but is upstaged by its smaller neighbour, the magnificent fang of granite that is Cir Mhor, the island’s pyramid-shaped talisman. Don’t let the relatively small height of the hills in this northern part of the island deceive you: this a scrambling Shangri-La, uncompromisingly angular, full of enough sweeping ridges and sharp summits to rival anything Snowdonia has to offer, but with a fraction of the crowds (see the fantastic Sannox Horseshoe ). If you don’t fancy scrambling there are plenty of walks allow you to soak up the island’s airy ambience without laying hands on rock, or you can just explore the beautiful coves and beaches that dot the coast. The southern half of the island is also a lot gentler than the north.
Where to stay: Glen Rosa campsite is so beautiful you (almost) won’t mind the midges. This being Scotland, responsible wild camping in the hills is permitted.
3. The Black Mountains
Wild ponies in the Black Mountains. Photo: Carey Davies
Another bunch of border hills, this time further south. If you like to ponder Anglo –Welsh history on your hill walks (and who doesn’t?), there are few better places to do it than the stretch of the Offa’s Dyke path which runs along the high ridge between Hay Bluff and Hatterall Hill. The ancient border coincides with the modern one, and the contrast is reflected in the landscapes either side. To the east, the land drops into the sleepy pastoral patchwork of Herefordshire and the English interior; to the west, a line of sternly sublime mountain ridges represent unconquerable Wales.
The Black Mountains sit within the Brecon Beacons National Park, but are distinct from the central hills that lend the park its name. They are characterised by long, sinuous moorland ridges enfolding beautiful valleys full of ancient woods, Augustinian priories , and thick hedgerows full of kestrels and kites. The combination of seclusion, history and natural fascination makes this landscape rich in atmosphere. As the author and native Raymond Williams, in his posthumously-published novel The People of the Black Mountains , wrote: "Press your fingers close on this lichened sandstone. With this stone and this grass, with this red earth, this place was received and made and remade. Its generations are distinct, but all suddenly present."
Where to stay Crickhowell has a charming village atmosphere, Bwlch has a good hostel , or those with literary leanings can get lost in Hay-on-Wye’s bookshops.
4. Connemara
Connemara's Twelve Bens mountains. Pic: Greg Fellmann / Shutterstock
The people of Connemara are said to have a dry retort to visitors gushing over the view: “you can’t eat the scenery.”
Life in this legendary peninsula on the westernmost edge of Europe has often been insecure, most profoundly during the potato famine, when it became one of the hardest-hit areas in Ireland. Even so, no one can fail to be struck by the sheer distinctiveness and beauty of Connemara; the intricate interplay of land and sea, the shifting light, the multidimensional geology. Today, it has an almost mythical status as a stronghold of Irish identity.
In terms of hill walking, the Twelve Bens and the Maumturks are good places to look. Walkers acquainted with the north west coast of Scotland and the Hebrides will have an idea of what to expect; boggy, tussocky terrain that is sometimes rather argumentative, occasionally fierce weather, but a landscape of wild, lonely hills and wonderfully convoluted coastline that more than compensates the effort. Being on the west coast of Ireland, Connemara takes a while to get to from Britain, but the journey is definitely do-able from most places in a day.
Where to stay: hostels and campsites , or is within driving distance of lively Galway. For general info on hill walking in Ireland, see Mountaineering Ireland ’s advice, and for specific routes, the Irish Trails website is very useful.
5. Glyndwr’s Way
The route of the Glyndwr's Way near Upper Esgair. Photo: Andrew Hill / geograph.org.uk
In the mental map of many hill walkers, the middle of Wales might as well say ‘here be dragons’. We all know about Snowdonia in the north and the Brecon Beacons in the south, but what about that bit between them?
The 135 mile (217 km) Glyndwr’s Way is one answer to the question. A relatively new National Trail, established in 2002, it has yet to infiltrate the public consciousness to the same extent as more established trails, which means you’re a lot more likely to have it to yourself. Anecdotes abound of people walking it even at otherwise busy times like Bank Holidays and hardly seeing a soul on the way. The horseshoe-shaped route is full of prettily rolling hills and open moorland, but the real appeal is the sense of seclusion and world-apartness this secret landscape offers. Naturally, there is also a lot of historical interest, as it links together significant places in the uprising of Owain Glyndwr, medieval rebel against English rule, and Welsh national icon. Here be dragons? Absolutely.
Where to stay: National Trails website . Technical information is available on the Long Distance Walkers’ Association website.
6. The Howgills
The southern Howgill fells. Pic: Kevin Eaves / Shutterstock
A quirk of geological fortune has led to the Howgills becoming the classic example of an overlooked range of hills. Sandwiched between the Lake District on one side and the Yorkshire Dales on the other, the crowds tend to peel off in one direction or the other, leaving this ‘herd of sleeping elephants’, as they were memorably described by Alfred Wainwright, relatively bereft of company.
It’s such a clever trick, you suspect it was deliberate; when you walk in the Howgills, it’s hard not to wonder why this fenceless wonderland of flowing ridges and sinuously secluded valleys doesn’t receive more attention. These beautifully rounded hills might look like a beefed-up version of the South Downs, but they pack a much greater punch; the bare ridges are shelterless and exposed, and the sheer cascade of Cautley Spout, England’s highest cascading waterfall, would put many of the sights on the other side of the M6 to shame.
Where to stay :
7. Knoydart
View from the summit of Sgurr na Ciche in Knoydart. Photo: Carey Davies
Knoydart’s tagline is ‘Britain’s last wilderness’. Is it true? In the strict sense of a land untouched by human hand, no. But if we’re talking a place where you can immerse yourself for days on end in an uncompromisingly rugged mountain landscape full of challenge, natural wonder and breathtaking beauty, then it’s a resounding yes.
The smattering of houses and hamlets in Knoydart are not connected to the main road system, meaning the only way to reach them is either by boat or a long walk-in through the ‘Rough Bounds’ of the peninsula itself. The challenge of reaching the Old Forge Pub in Inverie on foot, usually involving either bothying or backpacking, is one of Britain’s hill walking rites of passage.
But a trip to Knoydart isn’t just for diehards and expeditionists. The boat connection to Inverie makes it possible to get within striking distance of some of Knoydart’s most celebrated mountains – like the Munros of Ladhar Bheinn, Luinne Bheinn and Meall Bhuidhe – relatively easily. Don’t expect the walks themselves to be straightforward, though; hill walking in Knoydart is uncompromisingly challenging. The days are long, summits are never less than hard-won, short stretches on the map can take hours underfoot, and the blizzards of midges in summer make effective nets and repellent an absolute must (you won’t forget this twice.) But any trip, even a short one, will linger long in the memory.
Where to stay : campsite and a solid bunkhouse , both run by the Knoydart Foundation, as well as B&Bs and self-catering stays. There are also lodges in Doune. See here for full accommodation options. A cautionary note: getting a pint at the Old Forge in Inverie should be on every hill walker's bucket list, but be prepared for the possibility of a mixed reception. This writer once walked for four arduous days from Glenfinnan, only to be abruptly told most of the beer was off and food wasn’t available, and is still smarting.
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