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Chapel Head Scar

Slate & Sport

Superb sport climbing on top quality limestone,typical routes 25-35m. Steep and fingery routes that will test even the fittest.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Lake District Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Within National Park No. of Routes: 73
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SD 443 862

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.

As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.

CRoW Information

The cliff and approach are not on Open Access land. However, a large part of the reserve (above the cliff) is, see map here;http://www.naturalengland.org.uk/ourwork/enjoying/places/openaccess/default.aspx

Group Advice

Unsuitable.

Area information

Weather Information

Guidebook info currently being updated

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9
Anonymous User
09/05/2017
Hi, is the peregrine ban currently in place this year? Thanks
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David Stainthorpe
18/05/2017
Is there an answer yet to the previous users question re the peregrine / nesting birds ban at this crag?
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Rob Dyer(staff comment)
30/05/2017
Hi both, yes the restriction is indeed in place in 2017 - the birds are being monitored and are nesting on the crag. If the restriction had changed, RAD would be updated immediately.

Cheers,
Rob Dyer (BMC Access & Conservation Officer, England)
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Chris Gore
26/03/2018
The peregrines have not nested in Great Gully since 2015 as there are crows nesting in the gully and they are return nesters. The peregrines are nesting further up the valley.

Surely it is time to renegotiate with the land owner for access in the Spring.

Could you please comment on this
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Rob Dyer(staff comment)
24/05/2018
We have reports of the peregrines in place on the crag. I understand that this is a very popular crag and for some reason, rumours that there are no birds nesting are circulated by certain individuals each year.

Their nest site is often difficult to identify as they are a particularly low key pair, but the site IS occupied each year, or the restriction lifted early on the odd year that the nest fails. It can take some time to pin down their exact nest site - this often requires multiple visits for several hours at a time to be in with a chance of spotting an adult returning with food. Given limited resources, we try to organise as many of these site visits as possible, but it can take some time to get confirmation - the site is a historical site, which almost always is occupied and fledges young.

The BMC and our partners are well aware of the importance of this crag, especially during nesting season and how keen climbers are to get on early - we do everything we can to monitor the birds and lift the restriction early if they aren't there. However, they are present in 2018 and have been for the previous few years. They are a Schedule 1 bird, protected by law against disturbance and regularly nesting at the site so please trust the BMC Access Team to represent climber's interests in monitoring the crag.

If the restriction is still in effect on this page, that is because there is a good reason for it to be.

Cheers,
Rob Dyer
BMC Access & Conservation Officer, England
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Anonymous User
18/03/2019
Hello is the peregrine ban in place this year 2019, as I went to visit Chapel Head yesterday and saw no sign of them or any other nesting birds?
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Rob Dyer(staff comment)
02/05/2019
Yes - peregrines are confirmed as back on the crag in 2019 with photo evidence from one of the volunteers who helps monitor the site.
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    Chapel Head Scar

    Slate & Sport