Craig Pen Trwyn

The Ormes

Includes all of the routes above the Marine Drive, including Mayfair Wall, The Cutaway, Gold Walls, Excursion, Pill box Wall, Yellow and Black Walls, etc.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Local Authority No. of Routes: 237
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1972
Grid Reference: SH 78062 83451

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Respect The Ormes - YouTube

No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Restrictions apply from 25 March - 30 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 

An additional restriction on Excursion Wall for No Bark, No Dill to Call it Black (Inclusive) due to a new nesting Choughs site. 

The Disillusioned Screw Machine- Rock Pipet nesting in one of the pockets on the route, unavoidable so please don't climb until end of July. 

Parking and Approach

Do not block the Marine Drive- buses and emergency vehicles have struggled to get past on busy days. There are yellow lines close to Parisellas's cave and cars been ticketed here. 

Area information

## Great Orme The Great Orme is a **Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI)** and a **Special Area of Conservation (SAC)**. Its wildlife and natural features are legally protected, so several access arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and Conwy County Borough Council to protect both climbers and the environment. ### Climbing Restrictions * **Upper Pen Trwyn (above the Marine Drive):** Climbing is only permitted **after 6:00 pm** during **Bank Holiday weekends** and the **summer holiday period (15 July–8 September)**. * **Seasonal bird restrictions:** Some crags below the Marine Drive are also closed during the bird nesting season. Please check the individual crag information before climbing. * **West Shore crags (including Craig Heulog):** Climbing is **not permitted** at any time due to their high conservation value. ### Conservation * Any proposed **new climbing routes** must be discussed with **Conwy Countryside Services**, as protected plants and wildlife occur throughout the Great Orme. * **Green marker posts** indicate areas open to climbing, while **red marker posts** mark restricted areas. See the *North Wales Limestone* guidebook for further details. ### Safety & Access * Use the **BMC-installed lower-off anchors** at Upper Pen Trwyn to avoid exiting via the unstable cliff top. * The **Marine Drive is one-way**. After climbing, **do not drive back towards the gatehouse**, as this could jeopardise continued climbing access. * Please park considerately. Do not block the Marine Drive, particularly near **Parisella's Cave**, as large vehicles, including double-decker buses, require access. ## Little Orme The public safety restrictions that apply to **Upper Pen Trwyn on the Great Orme** do **not** apply to the Little Orme. However, some crags are subject to **seasonal closures to protect nesting seabirds**. Please check the individual crag information before visiting.

Weather Information

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Anonymous User
18/04/2019
School holiday restrictions listed appear to be at odds with the North Wales Limestone Guide. Amendment needed. Should read 15/07 - 08/09
Anonymous User
04/05/2019
I have made this comment before.. the dates for school holiday restrictions are at odds with those contained in the N Wales limestone guide.