Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area and drop stones into the lower lift. Accidents have already occurred.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. Historic rockfall been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't want to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap (55m) or Joe’s Route (55m) . Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Restrictions apply from
1 March
-
22 July.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines are nesting on Fly Wall, about 10-15m left of last year’s nest on the half-height terrace. In addition, they have been observed using the ledges further south. Please do not climb any routes between Flyhole and Endgame at the southern the end the cliff inclusive.
Bird nesting is monitored by the Gloucester Wildlife Trust.
To allow undisturbed nest selection, from 1st March climbers should be aware that peregrines could be nesting almost anywhere on the cliff, and if they see evidence of nesting they should avoid that area (and if on route, retreat if safe to do so - even if it means abandoning gear) and inform the access rep - the relevant part of crag will then be closed and signs put in place. Additionally avoid anything to the right of Firefly on Fly Wall, as this is the most used nest site (high up on Jos'e and the Fly) and from the bottom of the crag it's hard to see if there are birds nesting high up. The restriction will typically then be reduced in scale on the advice of GWT.
Parking and Approach
Please use the parking on Lancaut Lane as a first preference if space is available. If this is full, and the roadside in the village is already filling with cars, please consider driving south towards Tutshill where there are fewer houses and less pressure. Wherever you park, avoid parking on the pavement and never block driveways. The gated entrance to Woodcroft Quarry/Fly Wall is repaired . Details of how to use it can be found here .