Linney Head

Pembroke South

User attention

September to October - there are likely to be seal pups in Linney Head Gully so please maintain 100m distance from pups at all times in order to allow the mothers to feed pups undisturbed. Thanks very much.

from 15/09/2023

Area of walls/zawns below the lookout station.

This area is often used by seals for pupping in the Autumn.  Please check information in the guardroom when booking on and maintain 100m from seal pups.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Regional CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Ministry of Defence No. of Routes: 22
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1991
Grid Reference: SR883957

The crag is in Range West, an Army live-firing range. Briefed climbers (with a valid permit) can access the crag year round when the range is not firing (all weekends & on Bank Holidays plus some weekdays). The BMC, MOD, the National Park and local climbers have negotiated putting some belay stakes above this crag.  Please do not place your own stakes - each stake placement checked for dangerous ordnance and approved by conservation bodies. Putting your own stakes in may be dangerous and will definitely jeopardise our access relationship with the MOD and CCW.

When approaching from Gupton Gate,in the nesting season (March to July) Please note there is a restricted area on the middle section of Frainslake Beach due to nesting Ring Plovers - please stay on top of the dunes, or at low tide, low down on the beach when passing this area.

Thank you!

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 1 August.

Reason: Nesting Birds

The nest site has moved - please see red pots at the site to show climbing restrictions and check the list of restrictions in the guard room when booking on to Range West 

Area information

South Pembroke is one of the best sea cliff climbing areas in Britain featuring abseil approaches, amazing scenery, and a huge number of fantastic routes - it is also extremely important for wildlife, especially the nesting bird colonies. There are many special access arrangements and seasonal climbing restrictions. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. Pembrokeshire National Park produce a very useful leaflet with all the current restrictions- this is also available at the main car parks (St Govans, Stack Rocks, Borad Haven South adn Stackpole Quey as well as in Mrs Weston's Cafe in Bosherton (note Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually)). https://www.pembrokeshirecoast.wales/things-to-do/outdoor-activities/climbing/ Range East The area from St Govans East to Stack Rocks is part of a busy MoD firing range. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/castlemartin-firing-notice--2 West of Stack Rocks, the range is used for life firing. Range West Briefing Dates for 2024 Thursday 14th December 2023 at 18.00 Thursday 11th January 2024 at 18.00 Saturday 10th February 2024 at 09.00 Friday 29th March 2024 at 09.00 Thursday 11th April 2024 at 18.00 Saturday 25th May 2024 at 09.00 Thursday 6th June 2024 at 18.00 Saturday 13th July 2024 at 09.00 Non-Firing Dates 16th December 2023 – 7th January 2024 22nd March – 7th April 2024 August 2024 Since Easter 2013 year round access is allowed to Range West for briefed climbers, only on non-firing days (normally most weekends and Bank holidays 2 weeks at Easter and 2 weeks at Christmas and most of August). LIVE high explosive ammunition is fired on Range West and it is paramount that climbers (and all users) stay away from and DO NOT touch anything metal. For the same reasons belay stakes should not be placed. If you think belay stakes are required please contact the BMC who can arrange for stakes to be placed in a safe manner.

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