The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.
Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner. If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC. In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access.
Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property".
Parking and Approach
There are several parking options, parking at the Chapel gives the shortest walk in, but should be avoided on Sundays during services. Park considerately in the Chapel parkin- Take a footpath slanting down through the trees from opposite the chapel gate. Pass a branch of the path that joins from further up the road then, after a few metres turn sharp left at an intersection with a bigger trail and follow it downhill (west) to a gravel road. Turn let on to the road and follow it and the continuation path down into the open area at the foot of the quarry.
Other parking is also available at Nant Alyn, on the far side of the river, and alternatively at Cilcain Parking a little further to the west of the quarry. Under No circumstances park in the caravan park or approach the crag through the caravan park.