Approach by abseil - 50m will get you to the niche for lighthouse direct but take care your ropes don't get trapped by the undertow at the base of the crag. Please take care with the rigging, the pegs are very old and should be backed up with extra gear.

Although there are no restrictions due to nesting birds, guillemots do occasionally nest on the breaks below the halfway ledge, close to the first pitches of Pel and North West Passage. If this is the case try to climb to one side of the nests and avoid going directly past it.  These few birds that do nest here seem to be very tolerant of climbers as long as we climb past quickly...!

Gogarth's seacliffs contain some of the most important breeding seabird colonies in Europe. It is important climbers continue contributing towards their protection by observing the negotiated nesting restrictions which apply to a number of cliffs. Most of the area is managed by the RSPB as an internationally important bird reserve and the arrangements here are often cited as best exemplars of how climbing and conservation can co-exist. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. The range of cliffs include Gogarth Bay, South Stack, The Range as well as other outlying crags along the Anglesey coast.