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Penrhyn Mawr (The Range)

Gogarth Area

Pleasant, slightly less serious alternative to the other Gogarth crags. Somewhat dubious rock on some of the top outs , but the low angle of some the climbs compensates for this. Generally poor top belays - take care. Belay stakes are in place on top of some routes - these have been agreed between the BMC and the RSPB. Please do not place any more without consulting the BMC as the land is part of an RSPB reserve and many rare plants and nesting birds are found here.  

March 2025- Issues have arisen with coasteering groups which have caused NRW and RSPB to remove access to the coastal margin. BMC are confident that individual climbing can continue here so long as the RAD restrictions are adhered to. More details on the closure can be found on the NRW web page. We are unsure at present if this will affect AMI members working with clients, on climbing courses. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Quartzite
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: RSPB No. of Routes: 100
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1960
Grid Reference: SH 21161 79866

Easy access  but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting  birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.

The Fortress may have guls nesting later into the summer, before crossing onto the Island make a judgement if you will disturb any disturb before crossing.  

Restrictions apply from 1 February - 31 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Refer to current guide book (Gogarth South by Ground Up) for individual seasonal route access info - however these have been slightly amended since 2018. The dates for each section are different due to the different bird species present :-

Seasonal restrictions apply to the following cliffs and routes :

Botox Zawn - restriction for "Salute of the Tengu" to "RAF Brown Slab" Feb 1st to June 30th. 

One Stack Zawn - Restriction amended and reduced to include "Angel of the West" only (nest is in the cave to the right. Feb 1st to June 30th.

Anvil Porus Area - as in guidebook, All routes restricted, Feb 1st to July 31st (Razorbill Colony) 

Ementhal Zawn - as in guidebook, all routes restricted, Feb 1st to July 31st

Housetrap Zawn - as in guidebook, the whole zawn is restricted due to nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th.

Pooh Bay - as in guidebook - Nesting Choughs, Feb 1st to June 30th.

Dichotomous Wall- as in guidebook, nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th. 

The Fortress (Dinas) - as in guidebook  2 pairs of Choughs nesting here Feb 1st to June 30th. As mentioned above this area is used by nesting guls. Please check before crossing as to whether its appropriate to climb on the Fortress (likely to still be nesting till mid August). 

Parking and Approach

Tidal. Area is designated as an SSSI and RSPB Bird Reserve. From the car park at SH216804 follow the track until overlooking the old life boat station. The coast path than be followed in either direction to the chosen areas. 

Area information

Gogarth's seacliffs contain some of the most important breeding seabird colonies in Europe. It is important climbers continue contributing towards their protection by observing the negotiated nesting restrictions which apply to a number of cliffs. Most of the area is managed by the RSPB as an internationally important bird reserve and the arrangements here are often cited as best exemplars of how climbing and conservation can co-exist. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. The range of cliffs include Gogarth Bay, South Stack, The Range as well as other outlying crags along the Anglesey coast.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

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    Penrhyn Mawr (The Range)

    Gogarth Area