Penrhyn Mawr (The Range)

Gogarth Area

Pleasant, slightly less serious alternative to the other Gogarth crags. Somewhat dubious rock on some of the top outs , but the low angle of some the climbs compensates for this. Generally poor top belays - take care. Belay stakes are in place on top of some routes - these have been agreed between the BMC and the RSPB. Please do not place any more without consulting the BMC as the land is part of an RSPB reserve and many rare plants and nesting birds are found here.  

April 2025- Unfortunately following further discussion, RSPB have decided that the removal of CRoW land will now extend to all users, including recreational climbers. This will continue until the 15th of September when it will be reviewed.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Quartzite
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: RSPB No. of Routes: 100
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1960
Grid Reference: SH 21161 79866

Easy access  but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting  birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.

Restrictions apply from 1 February - 15 September.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Due to nesting birds, the ban for this area has been extended. Please visit NRW page for more information Natural Resources Wales / Exclusion zone to prevent damage at protected site

Parking and Approach

Tidal. Area is designated as an SSSI and RSPB Bird Reserve. From the car park at SH216804 follow the track until overlooking the old life boat station. The coast path than be followed in either direction to the chosen areas. 

Area information

Gogarth's seacliffs contain some of the most important breeding seabird colonies in Europe. It is important climbers continue contributing towards their protection by observing the negotiated nesting restrictions which apply to a number of cliffs. Most of the area is managed by the RSPB as an internationally important bird reserve and the arrangements here are often cited as best exemplars of how climbing and conservation can co-exist. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. The range of cliffs include Gogarth Bay, South Stack, The Range as well as other outlying crags along the Anglesey coast.

Weather Information

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