South East Wales
A great wall of gently leaning sandstone with technical and fingery routes. Afternoon and evening suntrap. Easy parking (although restricted times).
This is a great local venue that is seeing more and more traffic, as sport climbing in South Wales becomes more popular. In 2023 the BMC ran a Crowdfunder to initially purchase the land for the local community, due to the land going to Auction the BMC was unable to purchase the land however, after communicating with donors and the local community most of the donations have been ringfenced for use in Sirhowy, the BMC contacted the new owners who are now happy for climbers to access the site with the proviso as with every crag that climbers accept the risk of the activity they are undertaking. The BMC will be working with the new landowners to improve the land both from a climbing experience and ecological experience.
There is a bird nest low down on King Ada/skanderbeg, please avoid this area. (updated 11/04/2021)
Parking and Approach
There are three options for parking from the village of Wattsville, you can park on the opposite side of the river, grid reference ST 20353 91172, or once you come of the A467 follow the signs for Sirhowy country park and either park before the barrier (free), or head through to park near the base of the crag, this closes at 4pm.
A wide variety of crags, including adventurous sea cliffs at Ogmore, modern sports routes on inland limestone and sandstone cliffs, and winter climbing venues in the Brecon Beacons. To Donate to the South Wales Bolt Fund https://www.southwalesboltfund.co.uk/swbf/support/ Up to date route info can found on the South Wales Climbing Wiki:-https://swcw.org.uk/
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