Lower Pen Trwyn

The Ormes

User attention

There is a large loose block to the left of Plumbline above Marine drive, the consequences of it becoming loose could impact on LPT. 

from 29/10/2024

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 62
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SH 78071 83555

Lower Pen Trwyn is one of the best Sport Climbing Crags in North Wales, and holds many test pieces, and some world renowned routes such as Statement of Youth, Liquid Ambar, and The Big Bang. However, it also has a wide range of Grades from 5+ to over 20 routes at 8a or above. There are less restrictions on LPT than the crags above Marine drive, but the tides can come in quickly so please check the tide times, the walk from the far side can take up to 30min across the boulders. 

Seals can often be found on the beach during pupping so please don't climb if there are pups on the beach. 

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 July.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Black Guillemots are nesting on Passenger (6a+), these are very rare so please help protect these species while they nest by avoiding routes from Jaccuzi Jive, to Face Race (7a+) inclusive.

Parking and Approach

Follow the Marine Drive until just past the first cave (the Dumbell Flyer Area). Jump over the wall and follow a well cut path steeply down onto the boulder beach. The entire base of the cliff is cut off at high tide. You can see how high the water gets by the distinct tide line at about 3 or 4 metres. As the tide goes out the routes are revealed from the left-hand end first, with the last ones exposed for about 3 hours around low tide. This is all pretty obvious from the road above the crag and you don

Area information

## Great Orme The Great Orme is a **Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI)** and a **Special Area of Conservation (SAC)**. Its wildlife and natural features are legally protected, so several access arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and Conwy County Borough Council to protect both climbers and the environment. ### Climbing Restrictions * **Upper Pen Trwyn (above the Marine Drive):** Climbing is only permitted **after 6:00 pm** during **Bank Holiday weekends** and the **summer holiday period (15 July–8 September)**. * **Seasonal bird restrictions:** Some crags below the Marine Drive are also closed during the bird nesting season. Please check the individual crag information before climbing. * **West Shore crags (including Craig Heulog):** Climbing is **not permitted** at any time due to their high conservation value. ### Conservation * Any proposed **new climbing routes** must be discussed with **Conwy Countryside Services**, as protected plants and wildlife occur throughout the Great Orme. * **Green marker posts** indicate areas open to climbing, while **red marker posts** mark restricted areas. See the *North Wales Limestone* guidebook for further details. ### Safety & Access * Use the **BMC-installed lower-off anchors** at Upper Pen Trwyn to avoid exiting via the unstable cliff top. * The **Marine Drive is one-way**. After climbing, **do not drive back towards the gatehouse**, as this could jeopardise continued climbing access. * Please park considerately. Do not block the Marine Drive, particularly near **Parisella's Cave**, as large vehicles, including double-decker buses, require access. ## Little Orme The public safety restrictions that apply to **Upper Pen Trwyn on the Great Orme** do **not** apply to the Little Orme. However, some crags are subject to **seasonal closures to protect nesting seabirds**. Please check the individual crag information before visiting.

Weather Information

There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag

There are no files associated with this crag

Crag Update Feed

Use this feed to update other users about crag conditions or similar current information. Suggested updates to page information should be made using the ‘report a page issue’ button above.

Posting as Anonymous Community Standards
3000 characters remaining
Submit
Your comment has been posted below, click here to view it
Comments are currently on | Turn off comments
0

There are currently no comments, why not add your own?