Lower Pen Trwyn is one of the best Sport Climbing Crags in North Wales, and holds many test pieces, and some world renowned routes such as Statement of Youth, Liquid Ambar, and The Big Bang. However, it also has a wide range of Grades from 5+ to over 20 routes at 8a or above. There are less restrictions on LPT than the crags above Marine drive, but the tides can come in quickly so please check the tide times, the walk from the far side can take up to 30min across the boulders.
There are no official restrictions here, however Seals can often be found on the beach during pupping so please don't climb if there are pups on the beach.
Parking and Approach
Follow the Marine Drive until just past the first cave (the Dumbell Flyer Area). Jump over the wall and follow a well cut path steeply down onto the boulder beach. The entire base of the cliff is cut off at high tide. You can see how high the water gets by the distinct tide line at about 3 or 4 metres. As the tide goes out the routes are revealed from the left-hand end first, with the last ones exposed for about 3 hours around low tide. This is all pretty obvious from the road above the crag and you don