Do not climb here during the restricted seasons and also avoid going onto the beach when seals are present, this includes seals close by in the water, disturbance of seals is a criminal offence, and disturbance can be as little as lifting their heads and pointing towards the sea, if you see the seals acting like this you've gone to close.
Due to the complications of land management and ownership, signs wont always be present, however there are several important times of the year,
September to January is pupping season, many young pups cant swim yet, and can be abandoned if disturbed.
January to April is moulting season, this takes alot of energy so seals are using the beaches to rest.
July to August females are often pregnant, and disturbances can cause miscarriages.
The above is for Grey Seals however Common Seals, will vary, and due to climate change these yearly patters can change.
A mainly tidal venue with some good hard boulder problems - can be greasy in humid conditions. In recent years this beach has become regionally very important venue for breeding seals with up to 200 seals hauling out on the beach.
Climbing Area:
Wales
Rock Type:
Limestone
Importance:
Local
CRoW Land:
Yes
Ownership:
Private
No. of Routes:
30
Within National Park:
No
Year Developed:
1980
Grid Reference:
SH 81766 82681
Restrictions apply from
31 August
-
30 April.
Reason: Other Conservation
No Access is permitted if there are seals present at any time of the year.
The whole beach is now a very important seal breeding site with over 114 (!!) breeding seals and pups counted on the beach in 2016. Due to the small scale of the beach and the high likelihood of disturbance (breeding seals are protected by law), the local council and wildlife trust are now enforcing a total ban on all public access (including bouldering) during this time.
Parking and Approach
Tidal.
The Great Orme
Due to the proximity of the public highway at Upper Pen Trwyn (Great Orme) and the breeding bird colonies, a number of special arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and the local authority to reduce the risk to the public and to conservation. The whole of the Orme is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an European Special Area Of Conservation whcih mean that the natural features are legally protected.
- Climbing above the Marine Drive (Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme) is only permitted after 6.00pm during all Bank Holiday weekends and summer holidays (15 July to 8 Sept).
- Green and red marker posts indicate the open and restricted areas. Also see the Onsight North Wales Limestone guidebook.
- The bolt lower-offs at UPT were installed by the BMC so climbers do not need to exit over unstable cliff top.
- The Marine Drive is a one-way road, do not drive back down the road towards the gate-house after climbing - this could jepordise access. There have been recent issues with cars blocking the Marine Drive near to Parisellas cave, and climbers are requested to be aware that large vehicles (inc. double decker buses!) do need to be able to get past.
-some of the crags that lie below the Marine Drive are also subject to seasonal climbing restrictions due to nesting birds, refer to individual crag entries for more info.
West Shore crags - including Craig Heulog. No climbing permitted at any of these crags (above or below the Marine Drive) due to very high conservation interest.
The Little Orme
The restrictions for public safety at the Great Orme (Upper Pen Trwyn) do not apply to the Little Orme. However, a number of the crags are restricted for nesting seabirds - see individual crag entries for more info.
There are no guidebooks assigned to this crag
There are no files associated with this crag