Marle Buttress

The Ormes

A small limestone crag located in Marle Woods near Llandudno Junction. Recent negotiations between the BMC Officers/Area Reps and the Woodland Trust mean conditional access is now possible but all visitors must follow the access code of conduct. Full details and topos are available in the North Wales Limestone 2025 Supplement.

Access Conditions:

  • No Organised Groups
  • if there are already several pairs at the crag please consider going elsewhere.
  • Park on the road in the designated area- do not use the small woodland trust parking.
  • Follow the designated route to the crag - do no stray off the paths or damage protected vegetation.
  • Be considerate, quiet and discrete - a public footpath and local houses are nearby.
  • No further development allowed without permission from the BMC and the Woodland trust. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Private Woodland No. of Routes: 12
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1987
Grid Reference: SH 79949 78781

Good quality, high friction, pocketed limestone, although development has been recent and some loose rock is still present: helmets recommended.  

Parking and Approach

From A55 J9 follow A470 towards Llandudno. Turn right at the first roundabout. Continue up a narrow lane and park near benches just past a left-hand bend.  Walk west down the hill to the small Woodland Trust car park (marked as Marl Woods on Google Maps). Please do not park here as it gets overcrowded. Go through the gate onto a track from where the crag is visible up on the right. Follow a small dirt path up through the woods to the crag. Please stay on the path and when at the crag do not trespass into the surrounding woods due to rare plants (4 minute approach).


 

Group Advice

Not suitable.

Area information

## Great Orme The Great Orme is a **Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI)** and a **Special Area of Conservation (SAC)**. Its wildlife and natural features are legally protected, so several access arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and Conwy County Borough Council to protect both climbers and the environment. ### Climbing Restrictions * **Upper Pen Trwyn (above the Marine Drive):** Climbing is only permitted **after 6:00 pm** during **Bank Holiday weekends** and the **summer holiday period (15 July–8 September)**. * **Seasonal bird restrictions:** Some crags below the Marine Drive are also closed during the bird nesting season. Please check the individual crag information before climbing. * **West Shore crags (including Craig Heulog):** Climbing is **not permitted** at any time due to their high conservation value. ### Conservation * Any proposed **new climbing routes** must be discussed with **Conwy Countryside Services**, as protected plants and wildlife occur throughout the Great Orme. * **Green marker posts** indicate areas open to climbing, while **red marker posts** mark restricted areas. See the *North Wales Limestone* guidebook for further details. ### Safety & Access * Use the **BMC-installed lower-off anchors** at Upper Pen Trwyn to avoid exiting via the unstable cliff top. * The **Marine Drive is one-way**. After climbing, **do not drive back towards the gatehouse**, as this could jeopardise continued climbing access. * Please park considerately. Do not block the Marine Drive, particularly near **Parisella's Cave**, as large vehicles, including double-decker buses, require access. ## Little Orme The public safety restrictions that apply to **Upper Pen Trwyn on the Great Orme** do **not** apply to the Little Orme. However, some crags are subject to **seasonal closures to protect nesting seabirds**. Please check the individual crag information before visiting.

Weather Information

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