Marle Buttress

The Ormes

A small limestone crag located in Marle Woods near Llandudno Junction. Recent negotiations between the BMC Officers/Area Reps and the Woodland Trust mean conditional access is now possible but all visitors must follow the access code of conduct. Full details and topos are available in the North Wales Limestone 2025 Supplement.

Access Conditions:

  • No Organised Groups
  • if there are already several pairs at the crag please consider going elsewhere.
  • Park on the road in the designated area- do not use the small woodland trust parking.
  • Follow the designated route to the crag - do no stray off the paths or damage protected vegetation.
  • Be considerate, quiet and discrete - a public footpath and local houses are nearby.
  • No further development allowed without permission from the BMC and the Woodland trust. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Private Woodland No. of Routes: 12
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1987
Grid Reference: SH 79949 78781

Good quality, high friction, pocketed limestone, although development has been recent and some loose rock is still present: helmets recommended.  

Parking and Approach

From A55 J9 follow A470 towards Llandudno. Turn right at the first roundabout. Continue up a narrow lane and park near benches just past a left-hand bend.  Walk west down the hill to the small Woodland Trust car park (marked as Marl Woods on Google Maps). Please do not park here as it gets overcrowded. Go through the gate onto a track from where the crag is visible up on the right. Follow a small dirt path up through the woods to the crag. Please stay on the path and when at the crag do not trespass into the surrounding woods due to rare plants (4 minute approach).


 

Group Advice

Not suitable.

Area information

The Great Orme Due to the proximity of the public highway at Upper Pen Trwyn (Great Orme) and the breeding bird colonies, a number of special arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and the local authority to reduce the risk to the public and to conservation. The whole of the Orme is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an European Special Area Of Conservation whcih mean that the natural features are legally protected. - Climbing above the Marine Drive (Upper Pen Trwyn, Great Orme) is only permitted after 6.00pm during all Bank Holiday weekends and summer holidays (15 July to 8 Sept). - Green and red marker posts indicate the open and restricted areas. Also see the Onsight North Wales Limestone guidebook. - The bolt lower-offs at UPT were installed by the BMC so climbers do not need to exit over unstable cliff top. - The Marine Drive is a one-way road, do not drive back down the road towards the gate-house after climbing - this could jepordise access. There have been recent issues with cars blocking the Marine Drive near to Parisellas cave, and climbers are requested to be aware that large vehicles (inc. double decker buses!) do need to be able to get past. -some of the crags that lie below the Marine Drive are also subject to seasonal climbing restrictions due to nesting birds, refer to individual crag entries for more info. West Shore crags - including Craig Heulog. No climbing permitted at any of these crags (above or below the Marine Drive) due to very high conservation interest. The Little Orme The restrictions for public safety at the Great Orme (Upper Pen Trwyn) do not apply to the Little Orme. However, a number of the crags are restricted for nesting seabirds - see individual crag entries for more info.

Weather Information

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