Recent conversations with the land owner have indicated that they do not wish individual climbers to access the land. Groups run by a professional instructor will need to contact the landowner, demonstrate insurance and qualifications and make the land owner aware that you'll be visiting the site. The landowner has indicated that a booking system will be available in the coming months. 

March 2025, currently we've not heard from the landowner regarding a booking system, for the time being please contact dannywg1@googlemail.com who will forward a request to the land owner. 

Parking can be an issue. Do not park  at the base of the track leading to the crag. Parking  should in the village of Pandy and walking a bit further to avoid blocking gateways and narrow lanes.

The eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley contains some great limestone escarpments and number of excellent cliffs with climbing ranging from trad. protected low-grade classics to modern bolt protected desperates for the steely-fingered. The whole escarpment is a SSSI with many valuable conservation features including; rare cliff flora, well-developed (and undisturbed) scree slopes, and established pairs of legally protected breeding birds. In comparison to other parts of the country, the Clwyd birds appear to nest slightly earlier in the year and voluntary restrictions therefore apply from 15th Feb -15th July inclusive. Local conservation volunteers monitor the nesting birds and agree appropriate nesting restrictions each year with the BMC. Relations between climbers, the local conservationists and Denbighshire County Council remain very good and it is important visitors continue to adhere to the nesting restrictions and following conservation advice. - The nest sites are located between markers placed by DCC at the base of the Craig Arthur, Monks Buttress, and very occassioaly in the Trevor Area (but birds have not nested on that section for over 10 years). The markers are metal squares (15cm across) painted half red, half green. The nest site is usually located between two markers which are usually 30 - 40m apart - climbers should avoid all routes in the 'red zone'. Conservation Advice - If you hear the obvious shrieks of an alarmed peregrine, please retreat from the area. - Stick to established paths across scree slopes. - Do not lower-off with the rope running directly around tree trunks.