Climbing is permitted at this crag and the landowner, Conwy Council, generally supports access. However, climbers are asked to avoid unnecessary gardening, vegetation clearance, or rock removal, particularly on the western side of the crag, which supports the nationally rare Silver-studded Blue butterfly and forms part of an SSSI. Please also avoid damaging the grassland below the cliff.
The right-hand side of the car park is now privately owned. Do not enter the fenced area or land associated with the former Castle Inn. The cliff itself remains in council ownership and climbing is allowed.
Please respect local residents. The crag overlooks nearby housing, and excessive noise or antisocial behaviour could jeopardise access. This is especially important for larger or organised groups, whose leaders should ensure appropriate conduct.
Parking can be limited at busy times, and complaints have been received about vehicles blocking the lane below the crag. If parking is congested, consider visiting another venue. Groups using minibuses or larger vehicles are strongly encouraged to use the Mynydd Marian Nature Reserve car park (SH893772) and access the crag via the short five-minute walk across the meadow above.
Group Advice
Suitable for small groups only - all the routes are sports climbs, and top roping directly through the bolts is to be avoided to minimise wear on the bolts .
Instructors and group leaders need to be aware that the cliffs are close to and overlook residential areas and there have been concerns by residents about noisy and unruly behaviour by climbers. Parking is also limted and there have been issues with minibuses impeding access on the approach lane.
It is strongly advised that groups in minibuses park at the main Mynydd Marian Nature Reserve car park at SH 89334 77388 . This is located by following the lane beyond the crag, in an eastward direction, until the lane veers left (north) and after half a kilometre the car park is on the left. It is only a very short 5 mins walk across the meadow to the crag from here.