Hornby Crags

The Ormes

The whole area which previously contained a mixture of trad and a few sports climbs has been extensively re-developed with a significant number of good quality mid-grade sports routes established.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Local Authority No. of Routes: 120
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1971
Grid Reference: SH 75437 84293

The cliffs also contain significant populations of the nationally scarce plant, the  Wild cabbage as well as other numerous  plant specied of note and climbers are asked to be careful that climbing activities do not damage this protected plant species (the whole area is an SSSI and has legally proctected conservation status). Many of the older traditonal routes follow natural crack and corner lines that have become heavily vegetated and are best avoided as they now provide a good refuge for these plants.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 25 June.

Reason: Nesting Birds

Crescent Buttress is subject to the seasonal restriction. The routes affected include Initition to Earthsong.  

Observatory Buttress and Central Buttress are not subject to any seasonal restrictions..

West Buttress between Phasic and Windy Miller (inclusive of both routes). This is a new restriction and may need extending, please contact the BMC if any further details are required. 

CRoW Information

On Open Access land. 

Group Advice

Not suitable

Area information

## Great Orme The Great Orme is a **Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI)** and a **Special Area of Conservation (SAC)**. Its wildlife and natural features are legally protected, so several access arrangements have been agreed between the BMC and Conwy County Borough Council to protect both climbers and the environment. ### Climbing Restrictions * **Upper Pen Trwyn (above the Marine Drive):** Climbing is only permitted **after 6:00 pm** during **Bank Holiday weekends** and the **summer holiday period (15 July–8 September)**. * **Seasonal bird restrictions:** Some crags below the Marine Drive are also closed during the bird nesting season. Please check the individual crag information before climbing. * **West Shore crags (including Craig Heulog):** Climbing is **not permitted** at any time due to their high conservation value. ### Conservation * Any proposed **new climbing routes** must be discussed with **Conwy Countryside Services**, as protected plants and wildlife occur throughout the Great Orme. * **Green marker posts** indicate areas open to climbing, while **red marker posts** mark restricted areas. See the *North Wales Limestone* guidebook for further details. ### Safety & Access * Use the **BMC-installed lower-off anchors** at Upper Pen Trwyn to avoid exiting via the unstable cliff top. * The **Marine Drive is one-way**. After climbing, **do not drive back towards the gatehouse**, as this could jeopardise continued climbing access. * Please park considerately. Do not block the Marine Drive, particularly near **Parisella's Cave**, as large vehicles, including double-decker buses, require access. ## Little Orme The public safety restrictions that apply to **Upper Pen Trwyn on the Great Orme** do **not** apply to the Little Orme. However, some crags are subject to **seasonal closures to protect nesting seabirds**. Please check the individual crag information before visiting.

Weather Information

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