User attention
WARNING: A large block has been pulled off on the left side of the start of Still Nice and Still Sleazy, it is likely that further looseness may still be in place where the block was. This is being looked into.
from 11/05/2026
Long line of west-facing crags above the Wye, rising to nearly 100 metres. Mostly quarried in the past. Mixed ethic; mainly trad but some sport. The land above the crag contains a number of private gardens.
NEW 3/11/25: Rockfall on Flywall roughly below Balls Out.
There is very loose rock (the cause of an accident Sept25) on Bacchanalian above the Gt. Ledge on North Wall.
Parking in the Woodcroft village is becoming more of a problem, please park with care and DO NOT park on the actual pavement as this has caused problems with wheelchairs and the less ambulatory recently. The gatelock is working again; consult the RAD for the code. The exit keypad has been disabled, just turn the latch to exit. Please do not damage the gate or fence as it will jeopardise access.
Pegs in the Wye Valley and Avon: It is strongly recommended that all pegs should be backed up with suitable natural protection as would be required if the pegs were not present. Bolts in Woodcroft quarry do occasionally become loose, carrying a spanner is a good idea.
Many of the cliffs in the Wye Valley and in the Avon area contain a mixture of quarried and natural limestone, Avon Gorge and Wintour’s Leap being classic examples. All these crags have a reliance on pegs for protection originally from the early pioneers in the 50’s & 60’s. Over time, many but not all of these have been replaced. A peg can appear good but be rotten internally, it may pull due to leverage in the wrong direction, be a marginal placement anyway or have become loose due to movement in the surrounding rock. Regardless of their age, look and type of the peg, it is strongly recommended that climbers do not assume they are good.
Avon & Wye Valley Access reps.
Climbing Area:
South West & Southern
Rock Type:
Limestone
Importance:
National
CRoW Land:
No
Ownership:
Wildlife Trust
No. of Routes:
352
Within National Park:
No
Year Developed:
1958
Grid Reference:
ST54169615
Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area and drop stones into the lower lift. Accidents have already occurred.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. Historic rockfall been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't want to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap (55m) or Joe’s Route (55m) . Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Blackbirds are nesting on Flywall between African Killer Bee & Dazed and Confused. Please avoid this area.
Peregrines are nesting on Fly Wall, about 10-15m left of last year’s nest on the half-height terrace. In addition, they have been observed using the ledges further south. Please do not climb any routes between Flyhole and Endgame at the southern the end the cliff inclusive.
Bird nesting is monitored by the Gloucester Wildlife Trust.
To allow undisturbed nest selection, from 1st March climbers should be aware that peregrines could be nesting almost anywhere on the cliff, and if they see evidence of nesting they should avoid that area (and if on route, retreat if safe to do so - even if it means abandoning gear) and inform the access rep - the relevant part of crag will then be closed and signs put in place. Additionally avoid anything to the right of Firefly on Fly Wall, as this is the most used nest site (high up on Jos'e and the Fly) and from the bottom of the crag it's hard to see if there are birds nesting high up. The restriction will typically then be reduced in scale on the advice of GWT.
Parking and Approach
Please use the parking on Lancaut Lane as a first preference if space is available. If this is full, and the roadside in the village is already filling with cars, please consider driving south towards Tutshill where there are fewer houses and less pressure. Wherever you park, avoid parking on the pavement and never block driveways. The gated entrance to Woodcroft Quarry/Fly Wall is repaired . Details of how to use it can be found here .
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