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Gogarth -Main Cliff

Gogarth Area

One of the most impressive and important sea cliffs in the world! A huge adventure fest of partially tidal climbing, extending across Gogarth Bay.  Quite committing with a difficult scramble descent to the base, well worth having a few grades "in hand"  for a first visit! Main Cliff eventually turns into Easter Island Gully Area. Most of Main cliff can be traversed into with low tide and or calm seas. 

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Quartzite
Importance: International CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: RSPB No. of Routes: 90
Within National Park: No Year Developed: 1964
Grid Reference: SH 21591 83417

Bird Nesting Information

Seabirds (mainly guillemots), choughs, and occasionally peregrine falcons nest on Main Cliff. 

Seasonal Restrictions

  • Climbers are advised to avoid Pentathol between 1 March and 31 July due to nesting guillemots. Climbing the route during this period can be unpleasant, and there is a risk of disturbing the birds.

Upper Tier

  • A gull nests beside the approach path to the Upper Tier. Please pass through this area quickly and avoid lingering near the nest.

Peregrine Falcons

  • In 2018, a pair of peregrine falcons nested on the first traverse pitch of Cordon Bleu. As a result, that route and several adjacent routes were temporarily closed to climbing.
  • If peregrines return to nest in the area, similar restrictions will be reinstated. Please check for on-site notices at the gearing-up area and descent gully before climbing.

Parking and Approach

Main Cliff is normally approached from the South Stack car park. Take the tracks on the opposite side of the road to the car park and follow the tracks heading towards the left hand side of Holyhead mountain. About 150m before the cliffs a smaller path will head left down towards the coast, the main cliffs will start appearing. A small grassy area before the main decent is used as a gearing area, depending on what routes you plan on doing. After this a steep path leads down to the cliffs scramble with care towards this area!

Area information

Gogarth's seacliffs contain some of the most important breeding seabird colonies in Europe. It is important climbers continue contributing towards their protection by observing the negotiated nesting restrictions which apply to a number of cliffs. Most of the area is managed by the RSPB as an internationally important bird reserve and the arrangements here are often cited as best exemplars of how climbing and conservation can co-exist. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. The range of cliffs include Gogarth Bay, South Stack, The Range as well as other outlying crags along the Anglesey coast.

Weather Information

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    Gogarth -Main Cliff

    Gogarth Area