Ubley Warren Rocks

Avon and Somerset

A short limestone crag, hidden from view, some lower grade bouldering problems, some highballs and five short lines, bolted at the top, presumably for top-roping school groups.

Crag information
Climbing Area: South West & Southern Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 54
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: ST5067055422

Ubley Warren is an SSI owned by Somerset Wildlife Trust and managed by the Mendips Hills National Landscape Team, the rakes are part of a scheduled monument due to the number of rare plants in the area, and the area is regularly monitored by the land owner.

Any damage to to the area (such as to the rock, or wildlife) is illegal and subject to a potentially unlimited fine. Many of the rarer mosses and plants are difficult to identify or very small and hard to see, and lack of knowledge is not considered a defence, so the landowner heavily discourages climbing, despite it's status as open access/CROW land.

Parking and Approach

Park by the roadside on Ubley Warren Drive (usually other cars with dog walkers), between two kissing gates. Head for the Easterly footpath into the nature reserve. Follow this path directly uphill across scrub and the rocks will be at the top of the hill. They are hidden from view from the road but a straight line walking approx 5 mins from this gate will lead you straight there probably finding the warm up rocks first. The longest gully of rocks includes the pit, trench and warm up rock

Alternatively there is a small car park at grid reference 505557 that will accommodate about 7 cars. Follow the path S from the car park. Follow the path until you reach the edge of Ubley Warren woods, follow the wall keeping it to your left until you cross a stile and find the warm down/Ivy rocks.

Group Advice

Use by commercial groups is not permitted without the landowners permission.

Charterhouse Outdoor Centre (owned by Somerset Council) is licensed to run a limited number of instructed climbing sessions in the area each year, which allows for the installation of permanent top rope anchors, and are subject to licensing conditions and monitoring to balance use of the crag for educational purposes and care for the local environment.

Area information

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