An east facing sport crag of very good rock on a wooded hillside. Sheltered from strong winds and quick drying. There are a number of sectors spread out along the hillside and these are best accessed form above. The old YMC access description is still possible but has limited parking and is quite steep. Named as Gate Cote Scar in old guides but that crag is further north.
Climbing Area:
Yorkshire
Rock Type:
Limestone
Importance:
Regional
CRoW Land:
Yes
Ownership:
Unknown
No. of Routes:
55
Within National Park:
Yes
Year Developed:
1974
Grid Reference:
SD970703
Parking and Approach
There are a couple of approaches following access land or footpaths. Please stick to these as other approaches involve crossing non-access land and/or walls.
It is worth noting that accessing the crag from the path that leads above it is the most pleasant way of getting to the various easterly sectors. Park on grass off the road running above the River Skirfare, accessed over a cattle grid just north of the bridge (just pass the junction north of Kilnsey). The best place is just before the conifer woodland. A sign indicates that a charge is made to park here but there is no honesty box and collection seems to be only on very infrequent weekends. A Parking place just uphill from Skirfare Bridge also gives access to a footpath crossing to this point. Walk uphill, crossing a fence using a newly repaired stile. A clear path leads up to another ladder stile giving access to the moor above the crag. For the East Crag cross the stile and climb up a bit before walking rightwards along the line of a wall then pass to the left of a prominent ash tree and limestone pavement. There is a scramble down, and then along the base, accessing the Left Sectors, easily stepped-over wire fence, found near the end of the pavement (see picture in that section), going right (facing out), then down a steep grassy slope. Alternatively, set up a delightful base camp, on a ledge 50m further on, above the Blue Meanings Sector for fine views and drop down by abseil (bolts in place).
The original approach (so as found in old YMC guidebooks) is fairly unpleasant being steep and trackless and is not recommended. It goes from tight parking for an absolute maximum of two small cars by a big tree a little over 1km north of Skifare Bridge. From here a gate accesses the hillside and a steep trackless flog leads upwards and slightly rightwards to reach the crag line. You may need to drive to Kettlewell to turn on leaving.
CRoW Information
Open access land, designated under the Countryside & Rights of Way Act (2000) give area access rather than linear access as provided by public rights of way. It also gives a legal right of access specifically for climbing, as well as walking and other quiet recreation on foot.
Please bear in mind however that the landowner still has the right to restrict access for up to 28 days per year (often used on public safety grounds for shooting in moorland areas), and can also apply for longer term restrictions with Natural England (such as bans on dogs, or regular restrictions during particular times of year). It is important to check for these restrictions regularly as they can be added at short notice – all details for open access land in England can be found on Natural England’s website .
Guidebook info currently being updated
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