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The Gap

South East Wales

User attention

Endangered Yellow Wagtails are currently nesting on Butt Hole Scoundrels - Fr. 6b+ (Line 3 on SWCW). Please avoid climbing in the Scoundrels Cave area until the end of September, and keep an eye out for others until then. 

They migrate from Africa to the UK around March till September, so will hopefully be on their way by October.

from 01/06/2025 to 30/10/2025

Part-natural, part-quarried, probably the best sandstone crag in South Wales. Routes up to 21m, though not much for the sub 6a climber. Virtually all the old fixed gear has now been replaced with either 10mm expansion bolts or resin staples and all sport routes in the lower quarry have lower offs, some sport routes in the upper quarry still require topping out (slings required).

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Sandstone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: Yes
Ownership: Unknown No. of Routes: 125
Within National Park: No Year Developed:
Grid Reference: ST 07866 96400

Endangered Yellow Wagtails are currently nesting on Butt Hole Scoundrels - Fr. 6b+ (Line 3 on SWCW). Please avoid climbing in the Scoundrels Cave area until the end of September, and keep an eye out for others until then. 

They migrate from Africa to the UK around March till September, so will hopefully be on their way by October.

from 01/06/2025 to 30/10/2025

Parking and Approach

Visible from the A470, but hard to find. Take the 3rd exit(Ystrad Mynach) on the Abercynon-Mountain Ash roundabout, then 1st L at the next roundabout towards Quakers Yard. Just before the first set of traffic lights(pedestrian crossing) take a narrow L over the river Taff, follow the road up a hill until you pass back over the A470: turn immeadiately R along a single-track road. Lower Quarry is soon visible on the L. There is ample parking directly below the lower quarry although it is beggining to get pretty rough due to 4x4 and motocross use.Very occasionaly kestrels nest in the lower quarry, if this is the case please give them a wide berth

Area information

A wide variety of crags, including adventurous sea cliffs at Ogmore, modern sports routes on inland limestone and sandstone cliffs, and winter climbing venues in the Brecon Beacons. To Donate to the South Wales Bolt Fund https://www.southwalesboltfund.co.uk/swbf/support/ Up to date route info can found on the South Wales Climbing Wiki:-https://swcw.org.uk/

Weather Information

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    The Gap

    South East Wales