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St Govans East

Pembroke South

Tucked away at the end of the most popular crag in Pembroke is a great crag with routes which see a fraction of the traffic. This is another one of those typical Pembroke crags that has a classic route - First Blood (E2) - which attracts people for their first visit but which tends to get forgotten a bit after that. Unlike some of the one-hit-wonder crags, St Govan's East actually has a lot more to offer. Routes like Calisto (E1), Round the Horn (E2), Forbidden Fruits (E3), Howling Gale (E3) and the magnificent Brave New World (E4) make a return visit well worth thinking about, especially if you are exasperated by crowds elsewhere.

2024 - please be aware of Rock Pippit nest near the start of Ganymede and climb quickly and quietly past this.

The area from St Govans East to Stack Rocks is part of a busy MoD firing range. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. 
https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/castlemartin-firing-notice--2

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: Local CRoW Land: No
Ownership: Ministry of Defence No. of Routes: 104
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed:
Grid Reference: SR9754692736

(!!!!) ALERT: There has been a major rockfall in Feb 2026, please take care. (!!!!) more information to follow. 

The Top of Rear Winds and Whispering Winds is dangerously loose, and potentially impacted the routes. 

Parking and Approach

Tidal at the ends, but non-tidal in between.

Area information

South Pembroke is one of the best sea cliff climbing areas in Britain featuring abseil approaches, amazing scenery, and a huge number of fantastic routes - it is also extremely important for wildlife, especially the nesting bird colonies. There are many special access arrangements and seasonal climbing restrictions. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. Pembrokeshire National Park produce a very useful leaflet with all the current restrictions- this is also available at the main car parks (St Govans, Stack Rocks, Broad Haven South and Stackpole Quey as well as in Mrs Weston's Cafe in Bosherton (note Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually)). https://www.pembrokeshirecoast.wales/things-to-do/outdoor-activities/climbing/ Range East The area from St Govans East to Stack Rocks is part of a busy MoD firing range. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/castlemartin-firing-notice--2 West of Stack Rocks, the range is used for life firing. Non-firing dates for 2026 when range is open (may be subject to change) 6th December 2025 – 4th January 2026 27th February 2026 28th March – 12th April 2026 9th – 17th May 2026 CALFEX dates (Big MoD exercise, range east and west closed day and night excluding weekends) 26th May – 19th June 2026 To access Range West, an annual Range West briefing needs to be attended: Thursday 4th December 2025 – 18.00 Thursday 22nd January 2026 – 18.00 Saturday 21st February 2026 – 09.00 Thursday 19th March 2026 – 18.00 Friday 3rd April 2026 (Good Friday) – 09.00 Saturday 23rd May 2026 – 09.00 Thursday 25th June 2026 – 18.00 Saturday 25th July 2026 – 09.00 Since Easter 2013 year round access is allowed to Range West for briefed climbers, only on non-firing days (normally most weekends and Bank holidays 2 weeks at Easter and 2 weeks at Christmas and most of August). LIVE high explosive ammunition is fired on Range West and it is paramount that climbers (and all users) stay away from and DO NOT touch anything metal. For the same reasons belay stakes should not be placed. If you think belay stakes are required please contact the BMC who can arrange for stakes to be placed in a safe manner.

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30/05/2021
Herring gull nesting at the bottom of Io, affecting Howling Gate to Dr Kiss Kiss
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    St Govans East

    Pembroke South