Mother Carey's Kitchen to Lydstep Pinnacle

Pembroke South

Atmospheric crags with a many superb lines (mainly in the upper grades) usually on good, well-featured rock. Best at Low tides although several routes are accessible directly by abseil at high tide.

Crag information
Climbing Area: Wales Rock Type: Limestone
Importance: National CRoW Land: No
Ownership: National Trust No. of Routes: 405
Within National Park: Yes Year Developed: 1967
Grid Reference: SS090975

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area resulting in seasonal restrictions.

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 1 August.

Reason: Nesting Birds

A seasonal restriction has been agreed between the BMC and National Trust:  Please avoid the following routes from 1st March to 1st August; All routes in the chimney from 'Karma Waters' to 'Star Gate' inclusive, plus 'Mars Bar' and 'Brittle Nerve' Routes on the outside face ('Eight Gauge' to 'Herod') are not restricted.

Area information

South Pembroke is one of the best sea cliff climbing areas in Britain featuring abseil approaches, amazing scenery, and a huge number of fantastic routes - it is also extremely important for wildlife, especially the nesting bird colonies. There are many special access arrangements and seasonal climbing restrictions. PLEASE REFER TO THE INDIVIDUAL CRAG ENTRIES ON THIS DATABASE FOR FULL DETAILS. Pembrokeshire National Park produce a very useful leaflet with all the current restrictions- this is also available at the main car parks (St Govans, Stack Rocks, Broad Haven South and Stackpole Quey as well as in Mrs Weston's Cafe in Bosherton (note Pembroke nesting restrictions are complex and vary annually)). https://www.pembrokeshirecoast.wales/things-to-do/outdoor-activities/climbing/ Range East The area from St Govans East to Stack Rocks is part of a busy MoD firing range. Access is permitted whenever firing is not taking place, which is normally on Weekends, Bank Holidays, and in the evenings (after 4.30). The night firing normally occurs on Tues/Thurs nights. The Range is sometimes open during the week, but it is best to check before travelling. Phone the 24 hour help line on (01646) 662367. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/castlemartin-firing-notice--2 West of Stack Rocks, the range is used for life firing. Non-firing dates for 2026 when range is open (may be subject to change) 6th December 2025 – 4th January 2026 27th February 2026 28th March – 12th April 2026 9th – 17th May 2026 CALFEX dates (Big MoD exercise, range east and west closed day and night excluding weekends) 26th May – 19th June 2026 To access Range West, an annual Range West briefing needs to be attended: Thursday 4th December 2025 – 18.00 Thursday 22nd January 2026 – 18.00 Saturday 21st February 2026 – 09.00 Thursday 19th March 2026 – 18.00 Friday 3rd April 2026 (Good Friday) – 09.00 Saturday 23rd May 2026 – 09.00 Thursday 25th June 2026 – 18.00 Saturday 25th July 2026 – 09.00 Since Easter 2013 year round access is allowed to Range West for briefed climbers, only on non-firing days (normally most weekends and Bank holidays 2 weeks at Easter and 2 weeks at Christmas and most of August). LIVE high explosive ammunition is fired on Range West and it is paramount that climbers (and all users) stay away from and DO NOT touch anything metal. For the same reasons belay stakes should not be placed. If you think belay stakes are required please contact the BMC who can arrange for stakes to be placed in a safe manner.

Weather Information

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Anonymous User
26/04/2018
Isn't star gate normally restricted
Anonymous User
07/05/2023
Birds nest on the bulge of rock idol.
Birds nests on the belay stance of threadneedle st and on inner space
Anonymous User
02/06/2023
Razorbills clearly nesting in deep space, plus fulmars.
Could see razorbills flying in & out.
Fulmar nesr on the corner of crithmum/Necropolis